Mark's big Bike Ride blog: Southern Bavaria & Austria part 18

So I made it back home safe and sound. It was great to meet and ride down to Garmisch with other members of the GS Club UK - Mike, Dave, Ron, Davey Boy, Andy, Rich & Sue, Paul and others.

Equally good was taking a week by myself to tour around Southern Bavaria and parts of Austria. At first it seemed strange - riding alone to places I had only a vague idea about, but I soon got to really enjoy being alone and not having to look in the mirrors, or look ahead worrying about keeping a group together. Once at my destination, I often found someone interesting to have a conversation with, even as with my Czech friends, when the understanding meant heavy use on sign language and pointing. I did try not to do the usual Brit' thing and keep shouting louder in a hope that they will understand

My plan for after the BMW Motorrad festival in Garmisch was to ride the Grossglockner which I did - 3 times, and would have done it one more time, but could smell burning rubber, and the weather started to cloud over and a huge scary storm began. Earlier in the week I managed to ride the great Stelvio and crammed in the Timmelsjoch too. On the way down through Austria to the Grossglockner I went via the Gerlos pass, and stopped to look at the Krimmel waterfall. Later in the week I discovered Hallstatt, one of the most scenic places I have ever been to. While visiting the Eagles Nest in Berchtesgaden, I got chatting to some very friendly German bikers who informed me about the Rossfeldstrasse scenic route around Berchtesgarden, they suggested I must take this toll road because it was a must see panorama. I duly set-off and wasn't disappointed, it was amazing. Later in the week I got to visit Colmar in the Alsace region and ride around the Vosges taking the Route de Vins. A very nice place I would hope to return to in the future.

Click here to see a video of my Ride around the Grossglockner I took with my camera velcro'd to my tank bag !

The Highs:

Although the Stelvio pass was great fun to ride a staircase of hairpins up and then down the mountain, I then took off to the city of Merano where some bikers explained to me how to get to the Timmelsjoch pass. It was late in the day, and I soon found out this pass closed at 20:00 hrs until 07:30. I found I had a race against time up thru' the St Leonards Pass up the Mountain on traffic free twisties, to find I had the pass to myself - got through the barrier at 19:15, and the pass was was perfect for bikers. I then had great fun winding my way through a very traffic free Sud Tyrol, back up to Garmisch. It was all I could do to stick to speed limits. The sun was setting, and riding through green valleys of farmlands was the best Sunday evening ride ever. The rest of the group didn't make it through (I thought they were ahead of me but spend longer on the Stelvio in a cafe) and missed the pass, ending up spending the night in a guest house.
Rounding a corner to discover the lake and the little town of Hallstatt. This place was mentioned in my guide book by Toby Ballentine, but I had no idea it could be so perfect. Set on the lake, with real Austrian wood cabins, I had no intention of staying, yet ended up camping for two nights at a great camp site right next to the town with great facilities. I recommend to anyone a visit.
The Grossglockner Pass, and Pasterze Glacier. Just look at the photos, perfect for motorcycles, and seeing 'covered' Aston Martin test cars, was good for cars too.
Gasthoff Friedberg, recommended by someone on the BMW club forum, their website doen't do it justice. It was in the most amazing location, and very friendly.
The Deutsche Alpenstrasse. I intended to ride this from Garmisch to Salzburg, but in the end I ran it from Konigssee to Lindau East to West. The sun was shining and there were hundreds of bikes twisting through a variety of scenery that included lakes, forests, mountains, valleys, farmland, more mountains, more twisties, a small toll road near Reit Im Winkl near a mountain lake. Perfect.

The Lows

Getting nicked with the club by the Austrian police for not having a Motorway Vignette. Particularly annoying since I knew about this beforehand but was following the group on their Garmin routes that didn't mention the motorway junction. 60 Euro fine - ouch, but I did think we had been done for speeding.
Lightning bolts in the middle of the road coming down from the Grossglockner, then getting soaked.
475 Miles in one day from Bouillon to Garmisch and having to pitch a tent in the dark - twice !

Total miles : 2880