Tuesday, 26 August 2025

Wiggly Wales in the Summer Sun

Recently, I have been watching the latest Nick Sanders YouTube series 'Edge of Europe' and I must say if you haven't seen it give it a go, its a lot of fun, his loose editing style and slightly dishevelled appearance after wild camping on 'wiggly' routes really has me in stitches at times. Nick is one of life's characters full of enthusiasm for travel I can't help but love the guy, and do hope to cross paths with him one day, maybe over a 'marvellous flat white' perhaps. 

What a great Summer for motorcycling! Myself and Rob heading off into the Dolomites late June for almost a fortnight away (see my 6 part write up, with videos here) and some nice sunny ride outs too. A week or so back on a warm blue-sky day I couldn't resist a full-day ride across to the Welsh coast just west of Machynlleth cutting across some empty lanes before riding along the estuary near Aberdovey, up through Tywyn and onto Barmouth. Rob was up for it too and while preparing the route I messaged him to say bring your panniers to change into swimwear, and 'don't forget your bucket and spade'. Rob duly responded with the message below, I passed on the route to him and we met up at 8.30 in Cleobury Mortimer for a fabulous ride, thankfully he'd thought better of it, and left the builders bucket and garden spade behind, still hoping to let the speedo's get an airing though.

While riding through the little town of Llandidloes we pulled into a parking space outside Shimmers Coffee House on Long Bridge St. The owner Michael a really gregarious fun guy hailing from South Africa explained the coffee house wasn't actually open yet, a new venture he had just started up he would be offering bed and breakfast etc and a welcome stay for passing bikers too. He did serve us a very nice coffee though, and gave us a tour. I have to say a great little stop over with bike parking inside an alleyway too. Ideal for someone coming into Wales from further afield than us. Stop off for a coffee if you are in the area and say hello. Great guy.


It was a 'marvellous' ride along that Dyffi estuary road continuing on through to Tywyn and the outskirts of Barmouth along a very picturesque coastal road. I had read in ABR it was possible to ride across Barmouth bridge (viaduct) so after a few attempts using the 'What3Words' app we found the entrance (deeply.motoring.knots). It all seemed a bit odd, crossing with cyclists and pedestrians but it's perfectly legal we continued on, just fitting through the gates at the end nicely.  


Neither myself and Rob had been to Barmouth before and both quite impressed, a very clean and pretty seaside front with nice restaurants. It was a busy day in school holidays though, just about managing to park the bikes in an empty motorcycle bay,  and then changed into shorts using our panniers to store gear and spent an afternoon sat eating Fish and Chips followed by a cool paddle in the sea.


To start our return we ran along the A496 estuary in-land and took the grade 2 listed wooden toll bridge at Penmaenpool.  It's a quid each for motorcycles to cross, and always worth it to get another look across the Mawddach river estuary as it widens out to sea.  


Riding the 'Hellfire Pass', (Bwlch y Groes) was a fun diversion too, a narrow lane that rises up and over the Aran mountains. A glorious view from the top and well worth it, this time I took a slightly different way since we hadn't come directly from the Bala side. Later, in the afternoon by now the traffic had eased and we completed our run back into Shropshire quite late covering a total of 235 miles. 


The following weekend I set off alone to ride down into the Wye valley. This time the weather was cooler, and slightly more comfortable as I did a nice 'ad-hoc' run through B roads down past Stanford Bridge and onto Bromyard. I guess, slightly inspired by the Nick Sanders videos it was good to just have an adventure and make the route up as I went instead of pre-planning beforehand. Riding on to Hereford, then Hay on Wye I realised I hadn't ridden some of these minor roads in years and it was wonderful to roll on and off the power on very quiet roads. The freedom my GS gives always makes me feel good again. Continuing on through Hay I had it in mind to stop at the Honey Pot cafe at Bronllys arriving at the same time as a couple two up on their smart looking 1976 Kawasaki Z900 and spent some time chatting over lunch. They were out for a short ride coming up from Monmouth, unfortunately I didn't get their names but enjoyed their tales of touring two up into France and the Alps on the Zed. It's great to meet new people and hope to meet them again some other time.


Sadly, I didn't get a photo of the Kawasaki, but had a good look, obviously no fuel injection and it did make me wonder if they needed to re-jet the carbs for the Alps. It must be great to own an old classic and I do remember older mates owning one, and me staring at them in the shop window of Cradley Heath Kawasaki centre many moons ago as a teenager. They still look great today. On leaving I took the road toward Builth Wells but soon found bikers flashing and one guy signalling to turn around. An accident and tailback with emergency services, so I took a nearby B road heading back toward Leominster a road I don't think I had ever ridden before. It was a 'wiggle' all the way, choosing to take a left before Leominster just to keep the fun going. I passed through Mortimers Cross, then Lucton and on the lovely B4362 and B4361 through Richards Castle and around Ludlow grinning all the way. My ride back had me standing on the pegs uphill on the wonderful climb through Caynham to join Clee Hill, turning off towards Bridgnorth and then after Kinlet through Button Oak and now since the bridge is open again (yee-haa)  .. back home via Bewdley. Perfect!
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