On the road for 9.30 up and over Birdlip a short time later, the route took me straight through the centre of Bath, getting stuck in all sorts of traffic with the day warming up well as I headed toward Cheddar Gorge stopping to refuel and grab a sandwich and drink at a garage/supermarket and parked up to climb up one of the rocky outcrops to enjoy my meal. A good place to spot the birds and a few raptors flying overhead, and plenty of visitors hiking through the Gorge. The temperature now rising, with few sports bikes shooting through the twisties, I noticed the camber of the road didn't really suit a fast run through, so I decided on a more sedate pace to enjoy the wonderful scenery.
The route skirted around Wells and Glastonbury, and later in the afternoon after a few stops I found myself a little too early to arrive at the B&B so continued along the coastal road A39 to the little town of Dunster and stopped for afternoon tea in the shade to people watch for a while. I had parked next to a small scooter and watched with interest as the rider, a rather short stout fellow and his short stout wife prepared for the rest of their two up adventure after spending an age removing and replacing the seat to deposit shopping underneath. Quite amusing watching them wobble up the hill, and it left me wondering if this was part of their biking holiday, good luck to them if so, looked like a lot of fun.
I often remember a conversation with my Mum about my Grandad and how whenever he bought a new car in the 40's or 50's he had to test its power and worth with a trip to these parts to attempt the climb up the very steep Porlock Hill. My Mum recalled how pleased he was that his Austin Seven could outrun his friends car up the hill, and I've always been fascinated with this golden age of motoring, hardly any traffic, no motorways and the simple adventure of finding out if a seemingly impassable route might need a lengthy diversion. Anyway, suffice to say my GS had no problem, but Porlock Hill is steep long and twisty and well worth the ride up and over as it levels out to what looks like moorland with the sea appearing just over the crest. I found a lane, that took me down an off-road track and parked up overlooking the bay, removed my helmet and earplugs to enjoy the bright blue sea glistening in the sunshine. There was a bit of a wind up here so a good way to cool down too.
I tapped the post code of the B&B into my Navigator to lead me to the
Old Cider House in the village of Nether Stowey, positioned at the foot of the Quantock Hills. I didn't want to ride along the A39 and the most direct route, I decided instead to skirt south via the Quantocks, and really glad I did, approaching my destination via a gnarly tree lined B road that opened out onto the Common, before dropping down into the really pleasant looking village. As I pulled up, I was greeted by Ian the owner who opened the secure gates to the yard at the back, ideal for bikes, and as I parked up noticed a R1250R parked nearby. I got chatting to one of the other guests, a regular, Roger with his wife Phoebe from Wem in Shropshire who had been coming for over 15 years. I was introduced to Lynne, Ian's other half and agreed to eat in with them. They offer a meal sitting at the same time a great chance to socialise with other guests. The room allocated 'Poets room' was excellent bright clean and ideal overlooking the yard and the garden at the rear, it turns out the Quantocks and Nether Stowey is part of the
Coleridge Way, associated with the Poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge.
In Xanadu did Kubla Khan
A stately pleasure-dome decree:
Where Alph, the sacred river, ran
Through caverns measureless to man
Down to a sunless sea.
These days having secure bike parking is essential, I had packed two disc locks, yet didn't feel the need to fit them to the bike since the security was so good at the Old Cider House. The meal was excellent, a Moroccan chicken dish with a kind of home made Mediterranean bread, all home cooked by Ian and Lynne. I got to meet a great couple Mark and Erica who were venturing out on tour for the first time with a ride down from their home town of Middlesbrough in North Yorkshire on their new R1250R. They intend to do more touring, and Mark being a paraglide enthusiast had a few tales to tell, even Erica had been in the air too. The pair were heading off back up north in the morning with a few stops in Bath, Cheddar Gorge and Stratford then on to the Peaks. Great to meet Roger and Phoebe too, Roger owns a dairy farm and a very active herdsman with many other interests that includes dancing, where Phoebe had decided to learn to dance quite late in life to partner Roger. The pair were quite an inspiration and very active walkers. They had come with their dog Rosie I think her name was, an elderly golden retriever who you wouldn't know was there, she was so well behaved. Ian and Lynne had just returned from an camper van tour of the USA that sounded amazing, and a few years ago had walked the 'Camino', to Santiago de Compostela the Pilgrims Way from the Pyrenees too. Having ridden along some of this route I have been intrigued by tales told by people who have done all or part of this walk, so great to hear their stories of people they met, the hardship and comaraderie with others.
Checkpoint stamps, to prove the Way of St James (Camino) had been completed.
After the very Full English Breakfast, we all said our 'fairwells' and I packed my bike ready to head off further West to explore some more. I had in mind a route I plotted out to visit Appledore via Porlock Hill again, then wind my way back over Exmoor. The original plan was to do a big loop in-land but I modified it to ride East via Barnstaple, Simonsbath and Wheddons Cross toward Taunton before picking up either the M5 or A38 North. As I arrive near Porlock I noticed a diversion off the main A39 to take a toll road that avoids the hill hugging the coastline with a tree lined narrow road that traversed its way up the hill. The scenery was just sublime overlooking the bay at Porlock Weir, thoroughly recommended and well worth the £1.50 motorcycle charge.
The actual route I took out to Appledore then across Exmoor
Porlock Toll road off the A39
My next stop was the pretty seaside town of Lynmouth where I stopped for a look around and was almost tempted buy one of the spicy pasties on offer at the Cafe near where I parked the bike. I wasn't really hungry and considered buying one for later, but they just don't taste the same cold. Anyway, indigestion on the bike isn't a good thing so I decided against it and opted for a short walk around the estuary 'mouth' instead. Nice spot, I'd like to come back here again one day.
Lynmouth
The A39 as it headed into Devon toward Ilfracombe and Westward Ho! became a bit slow, congested and less scenic. I hadn't been in these parts since my days on Boys Brigade camp, can't say it looks how I remembered it as it was so long ago, but when I finally arrived at Appledore I was rewarded with a sunny bay and beach view where I parked up. The temperature was rising into the mid 20's now so I took cover in a friendly Cafe and ordered a nice slice of cake and cup of tea. Not long after, I started tracking back East, and was keen to get into the heart of Exmoor now. I plotted a route that took me toward Simonsbath, and on to Wheddon's Cross.
Appledore
Initially, after Appledore I took the A39 again but soon turned off and to my surprise found myself near a little village called 'Brayford',the surname of my riding friend Mark who I couldn't resist stopping and getting a photo and sending him a picture of the signpost. The roads here were great as they rose up and down endless valleys with twists and turns rising up to reveal vast vistas of farmland and moorland. Eventually I came down this wonderful valley and stopped at the monument of
Sir John William Fortiscue the famous historian and author whose family ancestors owned parts of the Exmoor estate.
Fortiscue Monument
Late afternoon I found myself riding through the city of Taunton in traffic so decided not to stop and head up the M5 to by-pass Bristol. The intention being to get across the Severn Bridge to Chepstow and ride the Wye Valley up to Herefordshire then home. Unfortunately, I got stuck on the M5 so diverted off toward Weston Super Mare, and decided to head toward Clevedon and as fate would have it an enjoyable time waiting the rush hour out with an Ice Cream at the seafront. By now the late evening sun was burning so I sat on a bench messaging Hayley in Dubai and admiring her pictures she was sending me while admiring the view across the bay before moving on to Portishead. The run over the bridge was fun, but on the way to Tintern I was met with a diversion that at first I took as a disappointment, however the diversion route around Tintern to Monmouth was fantastic as the sun went down I found myself riding with another biker through Monmouthshire into the town. By now, all that was left was to find a decent Fish and Chip shop for a good fish supper to cap the trip off with. The one near the bridge and river was ideal so I sat on a bench to eat my tea before heading home via Hereford and Bromyard.
Wonderful mini tour around the West Country, seen some new sights, great roads and made some new friends. Exmoor is definitely up there for scenery and I hope to stay at the Old Cider House again someday and enjoy another lap soon. 😄👍
