As previously mentioned, Tim has recently taken delivery of a brand-new Royal Enfield Himalayan 410 and was keen to test the new bike on 'green lanes' in and around Snowdonia. Over a lunchtime chat the idea of a weekend camping trip came up as an option but I haven't put camping gear on a bike since 2017 and never with my current GS. To be honest I did think those days were over for me now, but the more I thought about it the more I liked the idea of freedom of adventure again, as long as we could find a camp site near a town with access to a pub for a good meal and a few beers within short staggering distance back. I once stayed at the very good Cae Du camp site just outside Beddgelert so despite the expensive tariff £35.00 a night for a tent pitch seemed normal for these parts these days we both booked the two nights - Friday/Saturday. The weather forecast looked favourable prior to booking so I planned and shared a few suitable routes with Tim, leaving me to gather together and find all of my camping gear, check tent/tent pegs, gas canisters for my mini-cooker, sleeping bag etc so by Thursday night had the bike packed and ready to go.
Fridays ride into North Wales
I met up with Tim in Craven Arms after a misty ride over Clee Hill, then on for a brew and sandwich stop at Tuffins Cafe in Churchstoke. Eventually we managed to pair our intercom units with a little bit of patience, mine being Sena and Tim has the Cardo system yet pleasantly surprised by the excellent audio quality btetween the two. The planned route took us through the lanes toward Oswestry and then on to Lake Vyrnwy. Tim had never ridden around the reservoir before, famed for feeding water to Liverpool so we went off route across the top of the dam to the cafe. By now the temperature was rising with glorious sunshine so we sat inside in the shade to enjoy a scone with jam and cream. Afterwards a bit more tech' tinkering, I'd recently had a new action camera; Insta 360 and early birthday present from Helen so now had the chance to mount the 'selfie stick' to the bike and make a few experimental recordings around the lake.
I had ridden the mountain road between Vyrnwy and Bala quite a few times over the years, ideal to test the Enfield and us both to record our journey along the narrow road. We stopped at the usual cattle grid to enjoy the scenery and met a fellow biker who also owns a Himalayan a nice chap who was running in his new Triumph 400. I really enjoyed following Tim, the sound of that single cylinder engine quite unusual these days a real sound of yesteryear. The bike was coping well loaded with all of that camp gear despite being 25bhp. The chosen route into Snowdonia meant more twisty narrow lanes yet I found myself enjoying the slower pace than I'm used to these days, never more than 55mph plodding along nicely around 40-45mph admiring the scenery all around, it really was quite relaxing.
From Vyrnwy to Bala across the mountain
After a bit of confusion on entry to the camp site our tent pitch was quite a challenge for me since I couldn't remember exactly how to assemble the tent, mistakenly unclipping the inner tent from the waterproof outer. Thankfully Tim the camping pro' came to my rescue but the next challenge was stuffing the camp bed 'cot' inside the tent since its seemed a little too large with this tent and was a struggle at first despite opening both doors.
Trying to keep my lightweight Helinox chair stable in soft earth was a challenge too, having me fall backwards like a right clown as soon as I tried to sit down, leaving me to dig the legs out of the turf. Hmm, what an ordeal, a sweaty start made me wonder if this camping lark really suited me now. Never mind at least it wasn't raining, and nothing a few beers and a fine meal at the Prince Llewelyn pub wouldn't fix. A really good day riding on some fine roads. I'm used to riding in Mid-Wales but forget how amazingly different the scenery of Snowdonia is in comparison. We hadn't ridden far today, yet it seemed to me like another part of Europe altogether.
Not the best nights sleep I have to say rolling around in my constrictive sleeping bag like some demented cocooned caterpillar, making me feel as if I was suspended in some failed cryogenic state on board that space ship 'Nostromo' from the Alien film. I think Tim had a better night sleep than I in his posher tent, and roused me by promising to saddle up and ride in to town to obtain supplies. He soon arrived back with the most essential of camping items; a big block of lard, eggs and bread rolls and soon we fired up our camping stoves each frying up bacon, eggs, sausage, black pudding and mushrooms all washed down with a brew of tea and coffee.
Eventually, we managed to ride away in the direction of Llanberis after rigging up our cameras, obviously leaving the luggage behind we were soon winding our way through the valleys and villages with quite a misty start this morning.
It seemed we'd picked a bad day to ride the Llanberis Pass though, we were passing slow moving MAMIL's cycling up the pass during the local Triathlon event. Never mind I thought I'll put the wind up 'em with my super long selfie stick and almost 'skewered' one poor chap as I rounded a bend. I found it quite amusing and sensed Tim did too while chatting over the comms. The slower pace was ideal while still 'running in' the Himalayan helping me keep control of my stick thus avoiding later retrieval from within some lycra clad body part.
The Llanberis pass was great with a short stop near the top we turned south back toward Llyn Cwellyn lake then east along the B4418 toward Pen-y-Groes. A fantastic ride some of which I caught on film (below), I thoroughly enjoyed this section passing by a huge quarry before joining the A487 South and then on to the B4411 to the seaside town of Cricieth. Another quieter narrow road and by now the temperature had risen we decided to stop at a cafe for a brew and spotted another superb cream tea option, this time a gloriously cherry filled scone to take my fancy.
While snacking on cream teas I found Tim's t-shirt quite ironic. A quote from the Micheal Caine movie 'Get Carter'. The hard man about town, yet us a couple of 'rufty tufty' bikers camping and eating scones with cream and jam like a couple of grannies on a coach trip! After our stop we soon snaked our way back toward Beddgelert and to the campsite and it seemed Tim was now on a mission having hit a 'running in threshold' mileage on the 'Himalayan' he was now chasing me down through the twisties. Great fun!
At 60 odd miles in total we arrived back quite early ready for a wash and brush up, change of clothes (Note. the shower at this site was really good and hot) we were ready to head into town for ice-cream and beers but not before hearing tales told by the camp site groundsman of his recent motorcycling trip in India, also on a Royal Enfield it seems. It sounded fantastic apart from the bit about how he'd fell off a few times in busy Delhi traffic. He left me wondering if he really did handle that bike better than he did his petrol strimmer because I was now concerned our bikes would receive a good 'peppering' of stones and grass and had visions of Tim touching up chipped tank paint on his new bike. Our evening was spent in the pub sat outside drinking beer with a good curry rice and chips before taking the dark road back to our tents. By now I'd sussed a few things out in the tent, re-arranged my bed and found somewhere convenient to stash my torch, but why-oh-why do tent and sleeping bag zippers always seem to jam up in the dark? Agghh, FFS!
So there I am lay there with alcohol still dulling my senses and I hear the gentle sound of rain drops on my tent, how nice I thought .. until the deluge came midway through the night. One starts to wonder if this tent really is as waterproof as it claims but I figured it was best to leave that thought until the morning. By then the rain was starting and stopping periodically and quite a downpour each time so there was only one option to figure out how to dismantle the bed and break camp while remaining under covers. No chance of us cooking breakfast this morning so I strategically packed the gear away all without getting too wet leaving the final act of packing the wet tent on the bike just after changing into bike gear before pulling it down. Not too bad I thought, maybe listening to round the world travellers explain how they do this kind of stuff on past episodes of the Adventure Rider Radio podcast really has paid off. I must say I was quite pleased with myself, but not quite ready to tackle the Mongolian Steppe just yet!
We discussed route options over the intercom. The route home was out West toward the seaside town of Tywyn after paying 50p each to cross the Penmaenpool wooden toll bridge near Dolgellau (when I finally found it after several turnarounds) before cutting back East along the Aberdovey estuary toward Machynlleth. I have to say I was pleased with our choice to stick to the planned route despite the constant rain. We were both wearing laminate Rukka gear and other Gore Tex kit so pressing on meant we were riding through some interesting lanes on the way to Tywyn and having a lot of fun before stopping at the cafe along the seafront for a full breakfast with hot mugs of tea. At this point we were both still quite dry, the cafe perfect for a warm up before heading off again and pulling over a mile or so down the road to grab a photo looking out across that bleak bay.
A fun weekend I must say, and I'm pleased I finally got to go camping on the bike again. Riding with Tim and the Himalayan gave me chance to slow down a bit on this one, and really enjoy the scenery even in the rain!
