Far and Near : Lakes and Dales

A weekend trip had been on the cards with Mark, touring somewhere up North for quite a while, unfortunately I had little holiday available out of this years allocation for time off work, so Friday to Sunday evening would be my only time suitable for a trip away. Looking at the weather forecast a rare rain free time in the Lake District would be possible this weekend with time to ride the Yorkshire Dales and maybe at a stretch the North Pennines too.

We both started looking on-line for cheap hotels or Bed and Breakfast accommodation but soon discovered the prices per night at £80+ single room in high season would bump it up to an unacceptable price and eat into valuable beer money. The solution? Well, load our tents and sleeping bags on the bikes, and find a decent camp site of course! 

The River Lune

 

In the end we settled on the Rugby Club campsite in Kirkby Lonsdale, the small but popular town in Lancashire. An easy reach given the time we would leave after work on Friday afternoon, and ideally positioned between the Lakes and Dales. We soon realised the North Pennines might be a stretch too far when we started planning our weekend rides using the Ride magazine routes as a guide, so decided to drop the Pennines to get the most out of the Lakes and Dales. Mark was super keen to ride the Lakeland area and some of the passes, I wasn't so sure since in July I had visions of it being overcrowded with 'bobbly hat' walking types and families driving around aimlessly in their cars. For me I was more attracted to the Dales with a visit to Ribblehead Viaduct as a must visit. 

Mark won out and convinced me the Lakes would be worth it, so with our routes loaded we met at Quatt Cafe near Bridgnorth around 3.30pm for a ride up through Shropshire and on into Cheshire, fuelling up with Samosa sustenance for Mark to aid the drag racing we would join in with versus Porsche GT sports cars near Oulton Park before joining the M6 near Warrington. On the way we became a bit concerned over the sudden transmission whine Mark was hearing from the Versys, and wondered if the weekend would end with his bike on the back of a recovery truck. Nonetheless we took it steady and left the fairly free moving M6 north of Lancaster for a wonderful evening ride into Kirkby Lonsdale and onto the campsite by 7.15. We had soon pitched up by 8.30 and took a walk into town near the 'Radical steps' by the River Lune. A few beers later and a good curry, we retired to our tents for the night. I can't say I had a great night sleep getting used to my lightweight cot again, and I'm sure the sleeping bag had shrunk since I had last slept in it - ouch! 

Saturdays Loop around the Lakes

Download Kirkby-Lonsdale-Lakes-loop.gpx

Saturday morning after a trip to the very basic shower facilities we headed out with lighter panniers to the start waypoint at Sedburgh, only to be confronted with a sign saying the main road was closed. I somehow felt confident that on a Saturday we could get around the blocked road but after about five miles was forced to turn around and head to Kendal instead. We had more trouble on that route too, there was rolling road resurfacing that had us waiting for a while before riding on newly dressed roads at a very slow pace in traffic. As we turned off in toward Windermere we were following even more slow moving traffic in what was great countryside but painfully slow. The route took us on to the Ferry crossing Windermere to Far Sawrey just as a ferry was coming in so we decided to board and pay the fee - a relief off the bike for a bit and good to see Windermere. After we docked we took a short ride to Hawkshead, Mark being more familiar with the area than I, suggested we get Breakfast there. We parked up paid the parking fee (just in case) and found a great cafe sitting outside on the street to devour a long awaited Full English with tea. 

 

Windermere

By now I was getting a little dismayed with the traffic and road obstructions and did think my fears of riding around the Lakes in high season were proven, but just as I was getting frustrated behind cars again, the road opened up as we passed the top part of Coniston Water and up the Wrynose Pass. The road surface is not the best, very bumpy and a bit narrow, but no real issue on a GS, before opening up, smoothing out as we climbed up the Hardknott Pass. This was great fun, wonderful scenery, fantastic roads a bit 'nadgery' not like an Alpine pass, but wild and typical of UK mountain roads. Lots of livestock around, sheep and cattle so take a little care rounding bends but great to ride up here at last looking down to the lakes in the distance. Now we were moving, and with great weather had a superb ride up and down the valley roads of the Hardknott I was feeling much better about today's ride, pleased that Mark had got it right. We pulled up near some cattle to get photos and admire the view from near the top. A few of the cattle seemed a little 'spooked' by us wandering up to their hill, and I wasn't too sure if they would tolerate us being there so we scuttled back down and rode off quick before their patience ran out.

Cattle on the Hardknott
 

Looking back down the Hardknott toward Wrynose

 

Wast Water

The route took us further North and up to Wast Water via Santon Bridge. The road smoothed out a little by now and we stopped briefly to enjoy the serenity of this smaller lake, with Mark reminiscing over family holidays in the area. I've only ever really been to Windermere and Coniston and never really visited any of the other lakes, so Mark pointed out the highest peak in England Scafell Pike I had never seen before. 

   

Mark at Wast Water and later looking back down the Kirkstone pass from the Inn.

Mid-afternoon we were riding right out West and could see the Sea appear from high up above Sellafield. Quite amusing the area reminded me of that Ready Brek spoof advert back in the 80's of the Nuclear plant that was once called Windscale but renamed for obvious reasons due to the reactor fire there in 1957. Nice roads and area, we stopped to refuel and a break before heading down to to Buttermere. The area around Egremont and on to the next lake of Buttermere is so great on a bike, wilderness roads, topping out on valleys with big skies one minute and narrow stone walled lanes the next. I'm sure I had been along some of these roads before but in reverse - maybe on past trips on the Harley. Eventually, we came back round to Keswick, and passed Derwentwater and then South on the A591 down to Ambleside before taking the back road out up the Kirkstone Pass to stop for a drink at the busy Kirkstone Inn. Quite amusing following Mark, who was rising up over the brow of a hill, then suddenly disappeared as the road dropped away giving the impression he had suddenly fallen off.

 

Just above the M6 valley on the way south

For our ride back to Kirkby Lonsdale we were keen to avoid the roadblock we had encountered at the start of the days ride, thankfully Mark had identified that we needed to approach on the other side of the river to avoid it, so we chose a point on my Navigator that should force us the right way. This took us down some narrow, high hedged lanes for quite a way, and by this time of day flies and midges seemed to find their way under the visor somehow, so quite a relief to get back to the tent. A quick change and back out for a few beers and arriving just in time before they stopped serving for another good meal. 

What breed are these sheep in the field at the back of the tent? 

Sunday morning we packed away the camping gear and loaded the Dales route to start at Sedburgh using the reverse of the route we did last night through Old Town and past the electricity windmills again that over look the valley and can be seen for miles around. At Sedburgh we found a great cafe, this time I had a light breakfast - poached egg on toast with bacon and sausage while Mark went for his second Full English. The weather forecast was good so we hoped to ride most of the route but knew at some point we would have to start tracking south to get home. The plan was to skip the Middleton section and drop down into the Forest of Bowland on the way to the M6.

Sundays Route around the Yorkshire Dales and Bowland

Download Route Sedbergh-Dales-Bowland.gpx

Parked up in Sedburgh

 

In the toilet at the Cafe I noticed this 'toilet twinning' sign (pictured above). Could this be for real? I thought, I must look it up 😳 Anyway, soon enough we were in the Dales and enjoying the roads and wild scenery. The route took us out toward Kirkby Stephen via Castlethwaite and Nateby then on to Thwaite past the amusing village named 'Crackpot'! We then cut back in across the heart of the Dales back toward Hawes.

  

The wilderness of the Dales and roads cutting through them are simply stunning, and a lot of fun to ride. Being a Sunday morning there were plenty of kindred spirits out too,  motorcycles everywhere! I guess you are spoiled for choice if you live near these parts to get your weekly ride-out fix. Didn't see many bikes with touring gear, so my guess is the local bikers are out having fun and who can blame them. 

We pulled up on the top of a Dales peak to admire the view and I couldn't help thinking I'd seen the view before but puzzled since I'd never been here, so couldn't work it out. I took a photo (above), where had I seen the two offset farm buildings at the side of the road? I did wonder if I'd seen the picture in a book and sure enough it came to me later being the cover shot for  one of Neil Peart's motorcycle ride series of books. Neil the Drummer and Lyricist for the rock band Rush is a keen motorcyclist and also rides a BMW GS. On my return home I grabbed the copy off my bookshelf displaying the same picture almost identically framed, what a coincidence! 

At Hawes we spent a while trying to find a suitable parking spot, the little town being overrun by bikes. I was thinking that if you came here this weekend for a quiet time in the pretty village you would be out of luck with loud Harley custom bobbers pulling in to ruin a Sunday morning lie-in! Some old classic Jap bikes here too like the Z1000 pictured below in front of Mark's bike with a chunk of wood on the back seat to strap on the camping gear in a makeshift manner.

 

We left Hawes after refuelling at the little garage there, again all the pumps were packed with bikes and I reckon the garage would soon run out of petrol so glad we filled up as we were both running low. We headed out to Ribblehead Viaduct next, and the straight bit of road nearby was packed with cars and the ever present speed camera van. We parked up and laughed at how the sports bikes were hitting the brakes just yards from the camera van, almost lifting the back wheel up to avoid getting a ticket.

Ribblehead Viaduct on the Settle to Carlisle line has always fascinated me for its sheer expanse and engineering quality. In 1876 it solved the problem of bridging the span across the valley because there was no other way to get the line through other than build this amazing structure. Great to get up close at last. I wasn't interested in walking down the lane to see it really close up though since seeing it in its entirety is much more rewarding. Mark went off to grab an ice cream and left me to marvel at it and grab a few photos while also wondering how on earth this was ever built without the much needed EU contributions we can't seem to live without nowadays?

The next leg took us across country in a South Westerly direction through the Lancashire countryside known as the Forest of Bowland. While riding I wondered where the 'forest' was as it seemed more open countryside than trees, yet we had a most enjoyable riding as we headed toward Slaidburn to our next waypoint destination Dunsop Bridge. The weather still ideal, not too hot and cool enough to ride with vents open, the route took us over quite a few small bridges and land features that had my backside leaving the seat, and on occasion the wheels leaving the ground too. At one point we came across a sports bike wreck near a bridge by a bend with Police attending the scene. Obviously someone had over cooked the run in, there was a guy stood up who I assumed was the rider, look like he had got away with it even if his bike hadn't. 

 

The Bowland countryside is different again, some great vistas as we rode up high above. We stopped for a late lunch at a great Cafe that I should mention  with great service 'Puddle Ducks' in Dunsop Bridge - right near the bridge, I had a superb Prawn and Mayo' sandwich on local 'Barm' bread. As we left it was now past 4.30, so we joined the motorway at Preston and got off at Whitchurch for a pleasant evening ride home through Shropshire - the reverse of the route up.  Thankfully Mark's Kawasaki gearbox noise didn't get any worse since Friday, and we got to ride most of the roads we had hoped. Excellent weekend away in an area that was 'Far' away in scenery but really quite 'Near' for a great weekend ride.

Thanks to Mark again for his company and navigational knowledge of the area.  Suberb! 👍

A Cotswold B road wander with Sausage

I haven't seen Steve since our tour of Northern Spain & Portugal back in early May so an overdue  breakfast meet was penciled in for today (Saturday) in the Cotswold village of Burford at what has become our usual meet place The Priory Cafe & Restaurant. 

In general the Cotswolds has some good roads but it's a busy place in the Summer months, the roads can become quite congested but I do have an excellent route down via the B4084 just up Windmill Hill and South of Pershore over Bredon Hill to the charming village of Elmley Castle famous for being a dominant position held by the Normans. Then take the B4078 through some real chocolate box villages including Ashton Under Hill, Dumbleton and on to Toddington, Kineton and Naunton near the Cotswold Farm Park (Adam Henson's farm from BBC Countryfile), then the only real busy section through the popular Bourton-on-the-Water before diverting to Great Rissington and Great Barrington to Burford. The route is superb, ideal for my GS with narrow tree lined lanes running between the villages that open out into vast Cotswold stone walled farmland. I particularly enjoy the section past the Barrington Park Estate. I set out at around 8.15 and the Navigator said my arrival would be 10.30, yet after a cool and spirited ride with almost zero traffic I arrived at 09:50 (how did that happen?).

Steve arrived soon after and we both enjoyed an excellent Breakfast for me to include the expectant sausage as planned with poached egg on toast. Great to catch up and reflect on our last tour. I do hope we do a tour together again next year too, such good fun as ever and great company.

Download the Route File Here

My route home was kind of the reverse but passing through Turkdean and Cold Aston and on to Pershore via  the charitable trust village of Guiting Power instead. Unfortunately, I did hit a bit of a downpour as I reached Six Ways in Worcester but nothing to diminish a great ride and meet!

Make it up ride around Herefordshire

Right on the heels of my trip way to the West Country and before I do the Airport run this evening I decided to give Lindsay a bell, see if he was up for a breakfast ride out to Shobdon Aerodrome. He managed to get a pass out, so we met at my house and headed off out toward Button Oak then on to Cleobury and over Clee Hill. Today was cooler, so instead of the usual run to Tenbury Wells, I decided to cut through the back end of Ludlow via Caynham and then on to Mortimers Cross that way. Lindsay hadn't ridden that way before, a much more interesting route where part of it takes you up the narrow lanes for a section, very scenic I have to say.

Good to catch up with my old riding 'mukka' who tends to ride in the week these days, so after a good hearty breakfast I decided we should have a good ride around making it up as we go. The idea I had in mind was to avoid main roads and find some B roads, linking them up somehow and keeping the route home accessible if we got bored. I have to say, we didn't get bored and spent the next couple of hours looping back over a kind of figure of eight in and out of Herefordshire crossing over at Tenbury Wells and ending up riding down to Bromyard then back via Stanford Bridge and Great Witley. Superb mornings ride, and good to ride with Lindsay this year at last 👍😃

Ad-hoc Route around Herefordshire

Download the Live Recorded Route File here

Impromptu tour of the West Country

Recently, I found had a free weekend to myself while Helen was away with Hayley in Dubai, so a brief tour away somewhere accessible I could reach over a day's ride would be ideal with the possibility of a night away to extend the return ride and make the most of it. My thoughts soon turned to North Devon and Somerset, an area I was unfamiliar with and I really fancied riding around the North Devon coast with a loop back through Exmoor taking in some of the best roads and sights along the way. After researching Ride magazine routes and consulting the Great British Motorcyle rides book I plotted a route down to finish up somewhere near Minehead. A quick search on the excellent Biker Guide website for a place to stay I booked up a stopover for one night in a place called Nether Stowey. 

 

On the road for 9.30 up and over Birdlip a short time later, the route took me straight through the centre of Bath, getting stuck in all sorts of traffic with the day warming up well as I headed toward Cheddar Gorge stopping to refuel and grab a sandwich and drink at a garage/supermarket and parked up to climb up one of the rocky outcrops to enjoy my meal. A good place to spot the birds and a few raptors flying overhead, and plenty of visitors hiking through the Gorge. The temperature now rising, with few sports bikes shooting through the twisties, I noticed the camber of the road didn't really suit a fast run through, so I decided on a more sedate pace to enjoy the wonderful scenery.

 

The route skirted around Wells and Glastonbury, and later in the afternoon after a few stops I found myself a little too early to arrive at the B&B so continued along the coastal road A39 to the little town of Dunster and stopped for afternoon tea in the shade to people watch for a while. I had parked next to a small scooter and watched with interest as the rider, a rather short stout fellow and his short stout wife prepared for the rest of their two up adventure after spending an age removing and replacing the seat to deposit shopping underneath. Quite amusing watching them wobble up the hill, and it left me wondering if this was part of their biking holiday, good luck to them if so, looked like a lot of fun.

 

I often remember a conversation with my Mum about my Grandad and how whenever he bought a new car in the 40's or 50's he had to test its power and worth with a trip to these parts to attempt the climb up the very steep Porlock Hill. My Mum recalled how pleased he was that his Austin Seven could outrun his friends car up the hill, and I've always been fascinated with this golden age of motoring, hardly any traffic, no motorways and the simple adventure of finding out if a seemingly impassable route might need a lengthy diversion. Anyway, suffice to say my GS had no problem, but Porlock Hill is steep long and twisty and well worth the ride up and over as it levels out to what looks like moorland with the sea appearing just over the crest. I found a lane, that took me down an off-road track and parked up overlooking the bay, removed my helmet and earplugs to enjoy the bright blue sea glistening in the sunshine. There was a bit of a wind up here so a good way to cool down too.

 

I tapped the post code of the B&B into my Navigator to lead me to the Old Cider House in the village of Nether Stowey, positioned at the foot of the Quantock Hills. I didn't want to ride along the A39 and the most direct route, I decided instead to skirt south via the Quantocks, and really glad I did, approaching my destination via a gnarly tree lined B road that opened out onto the Common, before dropping down into the really pleasant looking village. As I pulled up, I was greeted by Ian the owner who opened the secure gates to the yard at the back, ideal for bikes, and as I parked up noticed a R1250R parked nearby. I got chatting to one of the other guests, a regular, Roger with his wife Phoebe from Wem in Shropshire who had been coming for over 15 years. I was introduced to Lynne, Ian's other half and agreed to eat in with them. They offer a meal sitting at the same time a great chance to socialise with other guests. The room allocated 'Poets room' was excellent bright clean and ideal overlooking the yard and the garden at the rear, it turns out the Quantocks and Nether Stowey is part of the Coleridge Way, associated with the Poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge. 

In Xanadu did Kubla Khan 

A stately pleasure-dome decree: 

Where Alph, the sacred river, ran 

Through caverns measureless to man 

   Down to a sunless sea. 

These days having secure bike parking is essential, I had packed two disc locks, yet didn't feel the need to fit them to the bike since the security was so good at the Old Cider House. The meal was excellent, a Moroccan chicken dish with a kind of home made Mediterranean bread, all home cooked by Ian and Lynne. I got to meet a great couple Mark and Erica who were venturing out on tour for the first time with a ride down from their home town of Middlesbrough in North Yorkshire on their new R1250R. They intend to do more touring, and Mark being a paraglide enthusiast had a few tales to tell, even Erica had been in the air too. The pair were heading off back up north in the morning with a few stops in Bath, Cheddar Gorge and Stratford then on to the Peaks. Great to meet  Roger and Phoebe too, Roger owns a dairy farm and a very active herdsman with many other interests that includes dancing, where Phoebe had decided to learn to dance quite late in life to partner Roger. The pair were quite an inspiration and very active walkers. They had come with their dog Rosie I think her name was, an elderly golden retriever who you wouldn't know was there, she was so well behaved. Ian and Lynne had just returned from an camper van tour of the USA that sounded amazing, and a few years ago had walked the 'Camino', to Santiago de Compostela the Pilgrims Way from the Pyrenees too. Having ridden along some of this route I have been intrigued by tales told by people who have done all or part of this walk, so great to hear their stories of people they met, the hardship  and comaraderie with others. 

Checkpoint stamps, to prove the Way of  St James (Camino) had been completed. 

After the very Full English Breakfast, we all said our 'fairwells' and I packed my bike ready to head off further West to explore some more. I had in mind a route I plotted out to visit Appledore via Porlock Hill again, then wind my way back over Exmoor. The original plan was to do a big loop in-land but I modified it to ride East via Barnstaple, Simonsbath and Wheddons Cross toward Taunton before picking up either the M5 or A38 North. As I arrive near Porlock I noticed a diversion off the main A39 to take a toll road that avoids the hill hugging the coastline with a tree lined narrow road that traversed its way up the hill. The scenery was just sublime overlooking the bay at Porlock Weir, thoroughly recommended and well worth the £1.50 motorcycle charge.

The actual route I took out to Appledore then across Exmoor

Download my Exmoor Loop File

  

Porlock Toll road off the A39

My next stop was the pretty seaside town of Lynmouth where I stopped for a look around and was almost tempted buy one of the spicy pasties on offer at the Cafe near where I parked the bike. I wasn't really hungry and considered buying one for later, but they just don't taste the same cold. Anyway, indigestion on the bike isn't a good thing so I decided against it and opted for a short walk around the estuary 'mouth' instead. Nice spot, I'd like to come back here again one day.

Lynmouth

 

The A39 as it headed into Devon toward Ilfracombe and Westward Ho! became a bit slow, congested and less scenic. I hadn't been in these parts since my days on Boys Brigade camp, can't say it looks how I remembered it as it was so long ago, but when I finally arrived at Appledore I was rewarded with a sunny bay and beach view where I parked up. The temperature was rising into the mid 20's now so I took cover in a friendly Cafe and ordered a nice slice of cake and cup of tea. Not long after, I started tracking back East, and was keen to get into the heart of Exmoor now. I plotted a route that took me toward Simonsbath, and on to Wheddon's Cross. 

Appledore

Initially, after Appledore I took the A39 again but soon turned off and to my surprise found myself near a little village called 'Brayford',the surname of my riding friend Mark who I couldn't resist stopping and getting a photo and sending him a picture of the signpost. The roads here were great as they rose up and down endless valleys with twists and turns rising up to reveal vast vistas of farmland and moorland. Eventually I came down this wonderful valley and stopped at the monument of Sir John William Fortiscue the famous historian and author whose family ancestors owned parts of the Exmoor estate. 

 

Fortiscue Monument

 

Late afternoon I found myself riding through the city of Taunton in traffic so decided not to stop and head up the M5 to by-pass Bristol. The intention being to get across the Severn Bridge to Chepstow and ride the Wye Valley up to Herefordshire then home. Unfortunately, I got stuck on the M5 so diverted off toward Weston Super Mare, and decided to head toward Clevedon and as fate would have it an enjoyable time waiting the rush hour out with an Ice Cream at the seafront. By now the late evening sun was burning so I sat on a bench messaging Hayley in Dubai and admiring her pictures she was sending me while admiring the view across the bay before moving on to Portishead. The run over the bridge was fun, but on the way to Tintern I was met with a diversion that at first I took as a disappointment, however the diversion route around Tintern to Monmouth was fantastic as the sun went down I found myself riding with another biker through Monmouthshire into the town. By now, all that was left was to find a decent Fish and Chip shop for a good fish supper to cap the trip off with. The one near the bridge and river was ideal so I sat on a bench to eat my tea before heading home via Hereford and Bromyard. 

Wonderful mini tour around the West Country, seen some new sights, great roads and made some new friends. Exmoor is definitely up there for scenery and I hope to stay at the Old Cider House again someday and enjoy another lap soon. 😄👍

East Midlands Rideout

Last Sunday was Father's Day, my two gave me some great reads, beer from Bewdley Brewery and another years subscription to Adventure Bike Rider. Can't wait to start the Pat Garrod book, and the long awaited Henry Cole biography too. I doubt the beer will last long though, thanks kids. 👍

So, for this Saturday, myself and Mark decided on a ride out East into Warwickshire and Northamptonshire, with a route back home via the south Cotswolds into Oxfordshire. Mark plotted a great route  on Basecamp, to include a trip through Stratford upon Avon with a stop for breakfast at Wellesbourne airfield where we met a nice chap riding a small home built cafe racer based on a Honda. I noticed the bike as we pulled up as it had 'Jonda' written on the chrome tank, obviously it turned out his name was Jon!

Brayf's  'Silverstone' route.

Download the Route Here

Later we took a ride out  Silverstone via Southam and on to Stowe stopping off at the huge National Trust property where we took a cheeky ride through the grounds, exiting on to the main road via a pedestrian gate before coming back through the Cotswolds and stopping for a shandy in the very picturesque village Kings Sutton just south of Banbury.

Our route back home picked up some great roads through Honeybourne and then Feckenham. Glorious sunshine today and wonderful scenery all the way. Great ride.

 

National Trust - Stowe

Kings Sutton