At dinner we came across Martin and Sally a couple also on a self-guided tour arranged by Ride with Us. They arrived at the Hotel Italia a day after, coming across from the Baltics on their own 17 day tour aboard their smart looking BMW K1600 'Bagger'. At breakfast we discovered they were riding the same route out to Pontresina, a small town near Saint Moritz in Switzerland and Martin commented how he'd found some of those tight hairpin passes a real challenge two up and understandably concerned about some of the todays passes and the weather forecast. Knowing how challenging they were solo, myself and Rob agreed it would be a busy day, crossing no fewer than seven mountain passes over 220 miles in total, with an option to take in the Gavia up to Bormio.
Not too sure if the Gavia should be in addition, or instead of, it was billed as the most difficult pass of all, and forecast to hit rain sometime in the day so we all agreed to stick to the planned route and decide if we should choose the Gavia when the time came. Wishing Martin and Sally a good ride myself and Rob said farewell to the hotel staff and set off south back over the wonderful Sella, and then into the Southern Dolomites towards Trento. Already another hot day as we tackled some amazing switchbacks before passing through farmland and eventually descending down into a wide valley overlooking San Michel All'Adige and the Adige river.
A breathtaking view opened up ahead while descending from the mountains and then crossing the river bridge towards another familiar mountain road I'd ridden back in 2018 the Passo del Tonale. On the way to the pass the traffic was fast moving at times but then slowed intermittently. I'm not sure where exactly, and it may have been before the Adige we hit some road works with a huge stationary queue of traffic. At first it was difficult to filter and pulled up behind a couple of UK registered bikes wondering if there was a way through the hold up. With my astonishment and no doubt those folks sat in cars too, Rob disappeared in to the distance first riding across the grass verge on the left and then the long gravel track parallel to the road.
I pulled my bike back a little and followed suit not really sure if it was legal, but 'hey ho off we go' I thought, and eventually crept into to rejoin the traffic a good kilometre down the road. At the time I did wonder how Martin would deal with this on that big bagger, two up with Sally. It was a shame I hadn't taken his number to call him up and warn him to find an alternative way.
Some way ahead of Rob by now I decided to wait at a suitable cafe with shade If I could only find one. After a slight diversion my GPS directed me off the main road and through the very pretty town of Ossana and onto side-streets. Looking up at a junction I had a great view of the huge castle hanging overhead and almost pulled up to get a picture, yet decided to rejoin the main road to continue on as the road climbed up with the spectacular mountain range appearing just around a bend.
It was hot, even in my mesh jacket I'd changed into near the Adige. Just past Vermiglio overlooking the valley I spotted a lay-by. Pushing 40 degrees now in the midday sun I pulled in and called up Rob on the phone. From his description it sounded like he was some way behind. Nice spot to stop and admire the view I thought, but really uncomfortable without any trees or shade so I threw off my jacket, grabbed my drink flask out of the tank-bag and waited for him to appear.
Time passes slowly when you are waiting, and Rob called me explaining he had made it to Ponte di Legno waiting at a restaurant on the other side of town. After he spelled the name over the phone a few times, me trying to listen as groups of bikers passed by I could only find an Italian restaurant in Moseley, Birmingham of the same name. 'MOSELEY .. I'M IN BLOODY ITALY NOT BRUM!' I shouted, not noticing the family walking behind. The Dad smiled at me, I reluctantly smiled back in embarrassment and the Mum looked at my registration plate before saying to the child: 'Ahhh .. Inglesie!'. I felt like shouting back 'Yes, Inglesie .. where's Pointy Lego Mrs Italiano any ideas?' but refrained. Looking more carefully at the map Rob was now quite a way west of me and my little detour around Ossana the only explanation as to why we had missed each other.
It didn't take me long to find Rob waiting at the entrance to a very splendid 'ristorante' right by the blue sign (above). Thankfully, it was somewhat cooler here with a blustery refreshing wind while seated on the terrace overlooking the valley, both enjoying a nice pizza, our first of the trip while still in Italy too. Splendid views of the mountain to the west and ahead of us the Stelvio national park to the north. With time pressing on we didn't give the optional Gavia any more thought and continued on up and over the very pleasant Passo'Aprica, a continuation of the Tonale, before heading north toward Bormio and that steep climb up the 2,100 metre high Foscagno and dark grey storm clouds ahead. As I came out of a dark tunnel a shimmering waterfall of rain confronted me, only wearing summer gear without waterproofs I called up Rob who was some way behind to warn him. While inside the next tunnel I decided to shelter at one of the SOS refuge lay-bys, Rob was doing the same in another tunnel by now too. Not a nice environment I thought, grimy, dirty and dark and difficult to see the roll bag fasteners as I swapped out my mesh jacket for the rukka and grabbed my waterproof gloves taking great care to ensure I hadn't left anything behind. As I left the tunnel a few miles on it did seem a waste of time revealing bright sunshine and no rain, but only temporary. Just west of Bormio in the ski-town of Isolaccia on the Foscagno as it started to rain again I pulled in to a small cafe near a pharmacy, with the green cross sign an ideal marker to let Rob know where I was. Not long after a warm coffee, we both tackled the Forcola pass and then that wonderful Bernina in to Switzerland.
Passo del Bernina climbs up to a high 2,328 metres and despite the damp after the rain the sun was breaking through the clouds by now giving light to amazing views across the valley and at times I could see right across and below the road just climbed. I tried to spot Rob following as I whipped round each bend to reveal more of a climb up into the clouds and passed by the spectacular Lago Bianco reservoir but couldn't make him out amongst other bikes. Good fun on my GS while set to dynamic mode, just rolling the throttle on and off in 4th gear and then, while stationary, at a temporary set of lights Rob caught up and overtook and I followed the Tiger with its distinct growl down the rest of the pass.
Arriving at the Hotel Schweizerhof a little too late to explore properly, the receptionist lady informed us we had parked in the wrong spot and needed to get a move on to make it to dinner. Our table for four was set to include Martin and Sally too, but while eating we received word they had phoned the hotel and abandoned the route due to bad weather in the mountains and opted to stay the night near Bolzano. Both of us tired at over 220 miles on some very technical but sublime mountain roads we left the restaurant for our rooms and with heavy eyes tried to read some of the Le Carre I had bought with me, only getting through two paragraphs before giving up and falling in to a deep sleep as heavy rain lashed against the window.
The Hotel Schweizerhof in this pretty town of Pontresina was a pleasant stay with a great underground car park ideal for the bikes and a nice cosy room too but over breakfast Rob revealed his disappointment at not having a wash basin only a shower. I found it odd the shower didn't have a curtain too, but took this to be the Swiss way. While settling our drinks bill Rob mentioned it to the receptionist who stated the basin was in fact inside a closet. I don't think Rob ever solved the mystery of the missing basin, settling for a shave in the shower instead! It was a bright morning albeit a little damp from last nights rain as I wandered around outside for brief a look around before loading my bike. Today we would head into Germany, first in the direction of Saint Moritz and then over the final mountain pass of the trip - the Swiss Flüelapass toward Davos.
I'd crossed the Flüela back in 2018 with Steve while on the way to Davos and at that time it was raining quite heavily. Today with sunshine it was a different affair, much more fun and fresh at the start of the day with good weather we were really enjoying the snake like road. At 2,300 metres high the craggy grey mountains seemed familiar from last time as we stopped to take in the view and Rob need to take a pee below the road. Quite amusing when a family in a motor-home pulled up and walked down the path much to Rob's embarrassment (and no doubt theirs too).
After the pass our route tracked the Rhine via motorway, and crossed into Lichtenstein briefly before heading into Austria toward Bregenz and then into Germany. Ride with Us had suggested lunch at the wonderful Steinhauser bakery in Diepoldshofen (Leutkirch). Parking up and changing into shorts to cool off we enjoyed a nice salad and drink while sat outside, both very tempted to try the bread and cakes too all made from local produce and the wheat from surrounding farms. A perfect lunch stop before crossing country in a north westerly direction of fast country roads spread between farmland, forests and small German hamlets.
Later, while passing through Zweifalten, in Baden-Württemberg we stopped at the next suggested bakery parking up behind the German Baroque Abbey, and as I recall next to a twin cam GS in a very tatty state. It was good to relax here enjoying ice-cream sat in the sofa style chairs outside. A shame we wouldn't have time to look around the Abbey I thought, but it was hot and late afternoon by now so keen to get to the hotel and out of the sun. We soon rolled in to the popular Hotel Gasthof Hasen at around 6pm, completing the final leg of this 232 mile ride. It took us a short-while to locate the discrete multi-story building to securely park the bikes and the rooms were modern with much needed air-conditioning. Later, a pleasant restaurant seated outside in the garden terrace for beers and meal with a few games of 'Monopoly Deal' to follow (I thought I had lost this card-game on the first day and despite searching all of my luggage the cards turned up while in Herrenberg, tucked under my Vario pannier leaver). Another pleasant stay with very friendly staff after riding through some very diverse scenery.
*Since returning home I have to say I have looked up that Italian restaurant in Moseley the menu looks really good!
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