Dolomites part 6 - The way home. Rhineland, Vianden and onto Rye

By now it was Wednesday, the 11th day of the 'Ride with Us' route (12th day since leaving home) and after the beers last night, and time spent trying to figure out how to close the window blind (almost calling room service for help) with much needed relief of the air-conditioning I awoke slightly dehydrated. Grabbing my drink bottle with paracetamol I tried to ease my sore head while reviewing todays GPS route. This ride would take us North-West into Luxembourg, cutting across more wonderful German countryside. I soon met Rob outside seated on the terrace. Having already prepped his bike, I followed suit before making several trips back and forth to sample many of the breakfast offerings including a very nice mini 'black forest gateau' with lots of strong coffee. Another hot day as I looked up across the top of the typical German 'Fachwerk' timbered buildings there wasn't a cloud in the sky today and we would soon be riding north through the pleasant country roads before the build up of early morning rush-hour traffic near Pforzheim. Somewhere on the outskirts I lost sight of Rob in my mirrors and not finding a suitable place to stop continued on and before long found myself on the motorway without him, heading towards Karlsruhe.  

Agreeing to wait at the next waypoint for each other a good few miles ahead I continued on until the exit off the motorway before fuelling up and finding the waypoint near a bakery in the town of Wasgau in Rhineland. I found some shade to park near a Japanese restaurant and called Rob who had stopped somewhere quite far behind. We both agreed it best to continue on and not wait around, by now the temperature reaching more than 40 degrees I needed to keep moving. After a very scenic ride through the forests and farmland I stopped at a level crossing near the pretty town of Hinterweidenthal, just east of Saarbrucken to consult the GPS and my map while waiting for a train to pass. A guy on a Yamaha Tenere pulled up near me and offered help and welcomed me to Germany. It turned out he was heading to work, and suggested it might be too hot for motorcycling before disappearing off in to the distance. Really? .. Do you reckon Fritz? I thought, sarcastically, the heat really getting to me now.

At over 40 degrees I was cooking and everywhere I stopped the sweat would be running down my back, the jacket wide open to get some air flow, my legs sticking to the inside of my gore-tex trousers all I could do was keep moving to get relief. I considered finding shade or better still a cafe with air-con to wait for Rob, but thinking back to the leap-frogging on the Tonale there would be no guarantee we could meet up again so easily. Rob had his own GPS unit with the route loaded and I was sure he'd find his way to the hotel eventually, my only concern would be if he picked up a puncture since I was the only one carrying a plug kit and compressor, and I was the only one with a paper map - a lesson for the future I thought. Still, there wasn't much I could do about that, Rob did have roadside bike recovery if needed, so I pressed on with the ride alone. I spent the early afternoon following the planned route along fast motorway sections with steep long climbs up and across river bridges trying to keep that air flow at above 70mph to stay cool. At one point I  crossed the Mosel river near a bend with vast vineyards spread out across the valley. I thought about leaving the motorway to ride alongside the river but in that heat the motorway was a means to an end and after the railway crossing I didn't stop riding until I came a cross the only service station I could find at Mehring.

Pulling in to the services I was invited to park under the shade next to a German guy who spoke good English riding a very nice Harley Davidson Softail Breakout. A brief chat, nice chap, he was heading home to Bitberg on the way from getting the HD serviced. He kindly offered to look after my bike while I grabbed a drink and food from the restaurant. After he left and waved farewell, with the bike shielding me I dropped my trousers to cool off while eating a quick snack and ice-cold lemonade, thankfully I didn't get arrested for flashing and after the break got to ride along the Mosel river for a short while. It was good to get off the motorway now and into pretty countryside again with some nice twisty road sections up and over hills between Bitburg and Mettendorf before crossing the border in to Luxembourg and dropping down in to the river valley at Vianden. I filled up with fuel on the outskirts before locating the Hotel Belle-Vue on the left. So pleased I had covered the 200 miles by 2.30pm getting in some shade at last and giving chance of afternoon rest. A swim in the indoor pool I got chatting to a group of GS riders, UK Police motorcyclists who regularly stay in Vianden each year and ride around the region using it as a base. What a great idea I thought, the Belle-Vue was a perfect stay with good sized rooms and a large secure indoor garage.

After my swim while waiting for Rob, I sat outside on the terrace with a beer and finally ordered that elusive omelette I'd hoped for throughout the trip before taking a pleasant riverside walk. I had been in in Vianden many years ago on a HOG tour, and impressed with the place so it was good to be back enjoying the view of the walled castle high above the river. I received a message from Rob who was making progress stopping off a few times including lunch at a nice cafe he'd found. We met up in the evening for dinner and drinks with a very pleasant surprise seeing Martin and Sally arrive soon after. A great couple we swapped tales at dinner and how they had hit worse rain than us before the Bernina causing their unplanned stopover. It was an early start, 7am the earliest access for breakfast, the bikes pre-loaded we had to be at the Channel tunnel check in by 2:30pm so said our farewells and hope to catch up with Martin and Sally again sometime. Hopefully they'll call us up for a ride around Wales in the future.

It was a pleasant early morning ride to start the 250 mile journey through the wonderful Wallonia and into the city of Bastogne where I couldn't help but think of that freezing cold Episode 6 of Band Of Brothers. It was ironic how the temperature dropped as we rode through the Ardennes forest on the outskirts. Now 13 degrees, I felt quite cold after yesterdays heat as we climbed a hill looking across distant countryside and farmland. We made good speed on the motorway, crossing into Belgium and then off the motorway a few hours later for a sunny ride into Calais. We both made the terminal in good time and without any delay crossed back into the UK on an earlier train. 

Our final night in Kent would be a twenty minute ride near Rye where Rob had had booked us into the very nice Flackley Ash Hotel. Neither of us wishing to ride the long route home today, and the thought of that M25 in this heat did not appeal at all. Another indoor swimming pool to cool off in, and a pleasant evening meal in a typically English setting recounting some great moments and fantastic roads on this latest adventure. The following day 'Chat GPT ' suggested a return ride to exclude all motorways so after manually plotting the waypoints in my Navigator we had another hot but fun ride home west grabbing breakfast at the Route 1066 bikers cafe and then joining the A272 up to Newbury before getting back to where it had all started in the Cotswolds. A total of 2500 miles and I must say using 'Ride with Us' a great time-saving option, provided us with excellent accommodation and facilities. All in all we had very few route issues (the shaping point problem we encountered and maybe a few too many motorway miles) the whole adventure worked out really well and the Dolomites being more enjoyable than either of us could have hoped! 😎

Not Possible!

Dolomites part 5 - Seven passes in one day, across the Flüela and into Germany

At dinner we came across Martin and Sally a couple also on a self-guided tour arranged by Ride with Us. They arrived at the Hotel Italia a day after, coming across from the Baltics on their own 17 day tour aboard their smart looking BMW K1600 'Bagger'. At breakfast we discovered they were riding the same route out to Pontresina, a small town near Saint Moritz in Switzerland and Martin commented how he'd found some of those tight hairpin passes a real challenge two up and understandably concerned about some of the todays passes and the weather forecast. Knowing how challenging they were solo, myself and Rob agreed it would be a busy day, crossing no fewer than seven mountain passes over 220 miles in total, with an option to take in the Gavia up to Bormio. 

Not too sure if the Gavia should be in addition, or instead of, it was billed as the most difficult pass of all, and forecast to hit rain sometime in the day so we all agreed to stick to the planned route and decide if we should choose the Gavia when the time came. Wishing Martin and Sally a good ride myself and Rob said farewell to the hotel staff and set off south back over the wonderful Sella, and then into the Southern Dolomites towards Trento. Already another hot day as we tackled some amazing switchbacks before passing through farmland and eventually descending down into a wide valley overlooking San Michel All'Adige and the Adige river. 

A breathtaking view opened up ahead while descending from the mountains and then crossing the river bridge towards another familiar mountain road I'd ridden back in 2018 the Passo del Tonale. On the way to the pass the traffic was fast moving at times but then slowed intermittently. I'm not sure where exactly, and it may have been before the Adige we hit some road works with a huge stationary queue of traffic. At first it was difficult to filter and pulled up behind a couple of UK registered bikes wondering if there was a way through the hold up. With my astonishment and no doubt those folks sat in cars too, Rob disappeared in to the distance first riding across the grass verge on the left and then the long gravel track parallel to the road. 

I pulled my bike back a little and followed suit not really sure if it was legal, but 'hey ho off we go' I thought, and eventually crept into to rejoin the traffic a good kilometre down the road. At the time I did wonder how Martin would deal with this on that big bagger, two up with Sally. It was a shame I hadn't taken his number to call him up and warn him to find an alternative way. 

Some way ahead of Rob by now I decided to wait at a suitable cafe with shade If I could only find one. After a slight diversion my GPS directed me off the main road and through the very pretty town of Ossana and onto side-streets. Looking up at a junction I had a great view of the huge castle hanging overhead and almost pulled up to get a picture, yet decided to rejoin the main road to continue on as the road climbed up with the spectacular mountain range appearing just around a bend. 

It was hot, even in my mesh jacket I'd changed into near the Adige. Just past Vermiglio overlooking the valley I spotted a lay-by. Pushing 40 degrees now in the midday sun I pulled in and called up Rob on the phone. From his description it sounded like he was some way behind. Nice spot to stop and admire the view I thought, but really uncomfortable without any trees or shade so I threw off my jacket, grabbed my drink flask out of the tank-bag and waited for him to appear. 

Time passes slowly when you are waiting, and Rob called me explaining he had made it to Ponte di Legno waiting at a restaurant on the other side of town. After he spelled the name over the phone a few times, me trying to listen as groups of bikers passed by I could only find an Italian restaurant in Moseley, Birmingham of the same name. 'MOSELEY .. I'M IN BLOODY ITALY NOT BRUM!' I shouted, not noticing the family walking behind. The Dad smiled at me, I reluctantly smiled back in embarrassment and the Mum looked at my registration plate before saying to the child: 'Ahhh .. Inglesie!'. I felt like shouting back 'Yes, Inglesie .. where's Pointy Lego Mrs Italiano any ideas?' but refrained. Looking more carefully at the map Rob was now quite a way west of me and my little detour around Ossana the only explanation as to why we had missed each other.

It didn't take me long to find Rob waiting at the entrance to a very splendid 'ristorante' right by the blue sign (above). Thankfully, it was somewhat cooler here with a blustery refreshing wind while seated on the terrace overlooking the valley, both enjoying a nice pizza, our first of the trip while still in Italy too. Splendid views of the mountain to the west and ahead of us the Stelvio national park to the north. With time pressing on we didn't give the optional Gavia any more thought and continued on up and over the very pleasant Passo'Aprica, a continuation of the Tonale, before heading north toward Bormio and that steep climb up the 2,100 metre high Foscagno and dark grey storm clouds ahead. As I came out of a dark tunnel a shimmering waterfall of rain confronted me, only wearing summer gear without waterproofs I called up Rob who was some way behind to warn him. While inside the next tunnel I decided to shelter at one of the SOS refuge lay-bys, Rob was doing the same in another tunnel by now too. Not a nice environment I thought, grimy, dirty and dark and difficult to see the roll bag fasteners as I swapped out my mesh jacket for the rukka and grabbed my waterproof gloves taking great care to ensure I hadn't left anything behind. As I left the tunnel a few miles on it did seem a waste of time revealing bright sunshine and no rain, but only temporary. Just west of Bormio in the ski-town of Isolaccia on the Foscagno as it started to rain again I pulled in to a small cafe near a pharmacy, with the green cross sign an ideal marker to let Rob know where I was. Not long after a warm coffee, we both tackled the Forcola pass and then that wonderful Bernina in to Switzerland.

Passo del Bernina climbs up to a high 2,328 metres and despite the damp after the rain the sun was breaking through the clouds by now giving light to amazing views across the valley and at times I could see right across and below the road just climbed. I tried to spot Rob following as I whipped round each bend to reveal more of a climb up into the clouds and passed by the spectacular Lago Bianco reservoir but couldn't make him out amongst other bikes. Good fun on my GS while set to dynamic mode, just rolling the throttle on and off in 4th gear and then, while stationary, at a temporary set of lights Rob caught up and overtook and I followed the Tiger with its distinct growl down the rest of the pass. 

Arriving at the Hotel Schweizerhof a little too late to explore properly, the receptionist lady informed us we had parked in the wrong spot and needed to get a move on to make it to dinner. Our table for four was set to include Martin and Sally too, but while eating we received word they had phoned the hotel and abandoned the route due to bad weather in the mountains and opted to stay the night near Bolzano. Both of us tired at over 220 miles on some very technical but sublime mountain roads we left the restaurant for our rooms and with heavy eyes tried to read some of the Le Carre I had bought with me, only getting through two paragraphs before giving up and falling in to a deep sleep as heavy rain lashed against the window. 

The Hotel Schweizerhof in this pretty town of Pontresina was a pleasant stay with a great underground car park ideal for the bikes and a nice cosy room too but over breakfast Rob revealed his disappointment at not having a wash basin only a shower. I found it odd the shower didn't have a curtain too, but took this to be the Swiss way. While settling our drinks bill Rob mentioned it to the receptionist who stated the basin was in fact inside a closet. I don't think Rob ever solved the mystery of the missing basin, settling for a shave in the shower instead! It was a bright morning albeit a little damp from last nights rain as I wandered around outside for brief a look around before loading my bike. Today we would head into Germany, first in the direction of Saint Moritz and then over the final mountain pass of the trip - the Swiss Flüelapass toward Davos. 

I'd crossed the Flüela back in 2018 with Steve while on the way to Davos and at that time it was raining quite heavily. Today with sunshine it was a different affair, much more fun and fresh at the start of the day with good weather we were really enjoying the snake like road. At 2,300 metres high the craggy grey mountains seemed familiar from last time as we stopped to take in the view and Rob need to take a pee below the road. Quite amusing when a family in a motor-home pulled up and walked down the path much to Rob's embarrassment (and no doubt theirs too). 

After the pass our route tracked the Rhine via motorway, and crossed into Lichtenstein briefly before heading into Austria toward Bregenz and then into Germany. Ride with Us had suggested lunch at the wonderful Steinhauser bakery in Diepoldshofen (Leutkirch). Parking up and changing into shorts to cool off we enjoyed a nice salad and drink while sat outside, both very tempted to try the bread and cakes too all made from local produce and the wheat from surrounding farms. A perfect lunch stop before crossing country in a north westerly direction of fast country roads spread between farmland, forests and small German hamlets. 

Later, while passing through Zweifalten, in Baden-Württemberg we stopped at the next suggested bakery parking up behind the German Baroque Abbey, and as I recall next to a twin cam GS in a very tatty state.  It was good to relax here enjoying ice-cream sat in the sofa style chairs outside. A shame we wouldn't have time to look around the Abbey I thought, but it was hot and late afternoon by now so keen to get to the hotel and out of the sun. We soon rolled in to the popular Hotel Gasthof Hasen at around 6pm, completing the final leg of this 232 mile ride. It took us a short-while to locate the discrete multi-story building to securely park the bikes and the rooms were modern with much needed air-conditioning. Later, a pleasant restaurant seated outside in the garden terrace for beers and meal with a few games of 'Monopoly Deal' to follow (I thought I had lost this card-game on the first day and despite searching all of my luggage the cards turned up while in Herrenberg, tucked under my Vario pannier leaver). Another pleasant stay with very friendly staff after riding through some very diverse scenery. 

 *Since returning home I have to say I have looked up that Italian restaurant in Moseley the menu looks really good!

Part 6 - Vianden, Rhineland and on to Rye

The Dolomites part 4 - Weekend of 'Dolomiti' rides

Cortina figure of 8

Early Friday as I threw back the curtains and walked out on to the balcony I realised the hotel concierge was right when last night he said dark skies and rain would be replaced with a bright blue sky today. It was perfect riding weather out there, yet after the miles covered during the last week very tempting to have a lazy day hanging around Corvara and use the hotel and spa facilities instead. The journey is all about the Dolomites and the opportunity to ride and explore some more would be too tempting for us. The itinerary for Friday offered a loop around the legendary Sella Ronda but while checking in to the Hotel yesterday we were told the Gardena pass would be closed for road works on Friday re-opening again for the weekend. So, deferring todays route and swapping it out for the Saturday one instead, we selected the nice figure of eight route with a crossover at Cortina d'Ampezzo. 

It was much cooler in the mountains now, so I stuffed my mesh jacket in to the empty pannier ready for the afternoon heat, it was so good to lose some weight off the bike and not have to strap on the roll bag now. With the route loaded on both GPS's we headed out of town and into the mountains above Corvara and very soon riding with other bikers across the passes, first the Valparola before it links up with the stunning Falzarego near Cortina. At over 2000 metres almost as high as yesterdays mountain roads in Austria, it was all I could do to concentrate, the amazing scenery would be a constant distraction while heading out to find Lake Misurina.  

On the way to the lake my GPS took us along an unpaved gnarly trail across a wooden bridge and beyond it looked a bit steep, uneven with quite a few ruts. Taking in the view I had in mind to grab a photo of the mountain beyond the valley (above) leaving Rob to continue on. Over the intercom we discussed how accessible the road was as it disappeared around a bend. Like last year in the Pyrenees it seemed my Navigator favours these rough mystery trails, even if I don't at first! In the end I switched the bikes mode to enduro, stood on the pegs, gripped the tank with my knees and climbed upwards and onto the main road again with Rob following behind.  

Another picturesque lunch stop pulling up next to a crowd of German bikers right on the lake shore described as a 'pearl in the heart of the Dolomites' and I have to say I agree. A stunning location surrounded by the mountains. Rob managed to grab an outside table at a busy pizzeria right on the shore and so we both ordered a salad with asparagus and spent a good hour taking in the scenery. After lunch we took off to find the Passo Tre Croci named after 3 crosses representing a mother and two sons who died crossing it during the winter of 1789. Despite the sad history it was fun riding the short section we did, and well worth the visit.  

Video: Mark and Rob on the Falzarego, Lake Misurina and Passo Giau. Best with sound and select 1080p in settings.

Near the pass there is a scenic toll road I'd hoped to ride but unfortunately after pulling in the narrow entry between the booths on a slight incline I was told 'It was not possible' and was passed a piece of paper with a website address it seems we had to book a time-slot on line first. At first I thought the young woman was joking so asked how much, she kept repeating 'Not possible'. Not being able to turn my bike around I asked her to lift the barrier so I could ride back out. 'Not Possible' she shouted again. I repeated, explaining my predicament and still she shouted 'Not Possible!'. Rob, who was behind me found this quite amusing not having entered the narrow space yet we were laughing over the intercom when I decided to turn my engine off, sit with folded arms and when she asked me again to move I shouted back 'It's not Possible !' With a coach full of tourists behind, the woman had no choice but to give in and lift the barrier. For a moment I was tempted to ride on up the pass, but decided better of it and did a u-turn to head back down the pass laughing and shouting 'Not Possible' over the intercom.

Our Friday ride of fun continued on as we returned back through Cortina and out on to the very twisty Passo Giau stopping for a coffee and cake at the restaurant at the foot of the impressive Nuvolau mountain that rises to more than 2,500 metres (pictured below). The view of the Dolomites are most impressive here and you can see right across to Marmolada. While admiring the scenery outside, Rob introduced a biker couple he'd met from Milan who were quite amazed we had ridden all the way from the UK. For a while we exchanged biker touring stories and the places we'd been and seen before heading off in the direction of the wonderful Colle Santa Lucia the walled town perched on a hill above. Everywhere I looked each view was worthy of a photo, hard to resist stopping at each lay by to get my phone out and take a snap.    

We made it back into the hotel quite early and after a swim in the pool met at the bar for beers just before dinner seated at our allotted table. I did enjoy the very nice ragu pasta and wine while both recounting the days events, the wooden bridge trail near Misurina and the 'It's not possible' moment adding to the amusement of a perfect days ride.  

The Dolomites part 3 - Timmelsjoch, Top Mountain Museum and into Italy

An early start on day five of the tour (day six from home) and Ride with Us had set up a nice dog-leg route in a westerly direction to pick up the Timmelsjoch mountain pass with an option to visit the famous Top mountain motorcycle museum before tracking back south-east across the Italian border and in to the Dolomites. A 7.30 breakfast meet had our wheels rolling at around 8.30. So far there had been some long days and arriving late evening on Wednesday and almost missing the evening meal we were both keen to make the most of today and arrive at our hotel in Corvara a bit earlier if possible. It would be be a shorter journey around 165 miles mostly in mountains thankfully only a few of those miles on the motorway. 

Alas though, after leaving on time the Thursday morning rush-hour traffic through Innsbruck would be our first challenge. It started to feel our early plans had been scuppered after becoming separated while filtering. I phoned Rob while moving and he said he was heading toward the A12 motorway slip-road. I had lost him somewhere near the city so continued on for quite a few miles in the traffic heading west, eventually joining the motorway close to the river 'Inn'. Fortunately, the in-helmet phone connection while riding allowed us to agree a meet at the planned motorway exit but thankfully just as I joined the A12 and passed a truck I spotted 'Americano Rob' and the Tiger straight ahead so quite relieved to keep moving without losing time locating each other. A good save we commented while at a brief stop near Sankt Sigmund im Sellrain to check our general direction. After yesterdays confusion and missing some of the route, today I would be double checking the direction the GPS was heading before starting the climb and following behind other bikers all weaving our way up and down valleys with the sun shining on this very pleasant morning. 

Video: Mark and Rob riding the Timmelsjoch

Riding the Timmelsjoch is a fantastic affair as captured in the video (above) climbing up high at 2,500 metres into the clouds the surface remains smooth with fast straight sections before switching back on the hairpins spaced between other long sweeping turns. Good fun even though our bikes were fully loaded with luggage. I'd ridden the pass before on two occasions. The first in the opposite direction back in 2013 with a storm brewing in the late evening only just passing through the gate before it closes for the night, and then again in 2018 I wasn't feeling too well after an evening on the beer the night before with Steve. On both occasions I'd missed stopping at the crosspoint and visiting the famous motorcycle museum, so intended to stop and take time to look this time.

After parking up overlooking the mountainside you are confronted with the huge futuristic two story wooden framed building that spans a kind of 'L 'shape wrapping around the cross point toll booths. By now both having worked up an appetite it was good to sit outside at the restaurant in the cool air and order a very nice lunch while admiring the mountain scenery and watching other bikers arriving and departing through the crosspoint. I can highly recommend the very reasonably priced gourmet burger, and Rob commented on how he enjoyed his meal too. A perfectly timed lunch stop before heading into the museum where 15 euro gains access to the best motorcycle museum I've ever visited. The exhibition is well worth it for any biker interested in the classics. There are over 580 bikes to look at from all over the world including Norton's, Moto Guzzis, Harley Davidsons and even a rare collection of Ferrari two strokes. I don't think I'd ever seen quite a variety in one place before with really fascinating odd looking machines and even the famous world's fastest Indian ridden by Burt Munro at the Bonneville salt flats. 

After looking at the wonderful exhibits when I returned outside I noticed it had been raining with grey clouds closing in around the mountain. It was possible with an onset of bad weather the pass would close forcing a return back down to complete our journey with a huge diversion avoiding the mountain pass altogether. I messaged Rob who was still in the museum and later explained my concern. It looked like other bikers were quickly donning rain suits and joining a queue to get through the booth so we decided to ride our bikes through immediately and get the rain gear on after. It's always worth remembering the toll booths or pass gates can shut at anytime for safety, so when the weather turns for the worst up on the mountain its best to ride on when you can. 

A perfect ride up and over the pass and I believe the best of which is after the crosspoint heading toward Italy. The ride down the other side would be through the very beautiful Passiria valley at San Leonardo and then into South Tyrol. The sky had brightened again leaving us to marvel at some of the most fantastic vistas before starting to climb again. Having crossed from Austria into Italy now, the passes are referred in Italian e.g. we had just come over Passo Rombo (Timmelsjoch) and now on Passo Giovo (Jaufen). 

Another amazing panorama ahead while rising to just over 2000 metres revealing impressive gorges and valleys lit up in the sunshine. Later, the sky turned dark again as we sensed a late afternoon storm brewing as is usual this time of year. On our descent we commented on a few flashes of lightning in the distance and while stationary at a temporary set of traffic lights the mirrors revealed clouds chasing us down the mountain as captured in the selfie picture (below). Very soon they would catch up, starting with a little light rain, and then later after a fuel and ice-cream stop near Brunico large hail stones were dropping pinging off my helmet and visor and stinging my arms and legs. Over the intercom I could tell Rob was suffering too but with amusement and gritted teeth we continued on. Thankfully, the storm didn't get any worse and passed by with hail turning to light rain travelling along the SS244 toward Corvara. Those jagged sheer vertical cliffs rising up ahead were unmistakably those I'd seen in pictures of the Dolomites, but with wet roads, early evening dusk and the tightening bends I needed full concentration on the road ahead.

At this time we did experience a car driver (in a BMW) who insisted on riding both our tails very close in a dangerous way so we both agreed to pull over and let the car pass. Despite this, given our invite even with indicators the driver hesitated and started to pull over with us too! 'Welcome to Italy' I thought, but soon after we were riding alone again on warm traffic free roads arriving in Corvara a short time later pulling directly into the small but sheltered Hotel Italia parking area just before it started raining quite heavily. Four nights half-board at this one, and could now rest up a bit assured by the staff at check-in that these dark, rainy skies would be clear by the morning. Settling in to each spacious room and just about making it to the wellness pool in time for a swim to cool off before it closed. We had finally made it to the Dolomites and celebrated with a cool glass of beer each (the very good Bira Forst) and sat down to enjoy our four course dinner while reviewing the days ride and looking forward to a more relaxed luggage free day tomorrow.  

Part 4 - Weekend of 'Dolomiti' rides.

The Dolomites part 2 - Black Forest the Rhine and into Austria

By now we'd covered over 600 miles from home so had arranged a shorter ride for today, a lazier day with a mere 100 miles to ride the Routes des Cretes (translated as 'ridge route') in the Vosges. It was a nice late breakfast at hotel Verte Vallee both sitting just inside the veranda overlooking the garden and forest. I'd slept well and the bikes were ready prepped early so we discussed the route after updating the GPS's. It was already hot, probably pushing the mid-twenties when we set off and somewhere on the outskirts of town my GPS took us up toward a very steep mossy narrow lane with grass growing in the middle between buildings. I pulled over to check our options since it looked to me a bit awkward and I couldn't see how far we would have to ride, but before I knew it Rob let the Tiger growl and was up and at it leaving me to nervously follow. My GS handled this well of course just me being overly cautious and we soon found the main road along the D27 and then onto the D431 winding our way up higher stopping somewhere on Grand Ballon to enjoy the view across Alsace. 

I was itching to film the ride and set up the Insta 360 on the magic selfie stick but unfortunately I set the camera to regular wide screen mode not 360, so after reviewing the footage so disappointed to find I'd captured mostly hedge at the side of the road not the vast scenery of forests and mountains I'd seen. This whole Vosges region is wonderful and perfect riding country, and always enjoyed coming here passing cafes and stop points I'd been before, and it sounded like Rob was enjoying it as we chatted over the intercom. I was starting to hear in the background that Tiger start to growl as I waved Rob passed and he unleashed the beast, let it rev a bit and leaving me behind for some miles as I pulled over and fiddled with the camera.

Some time early afternoon after a fun ride on high came the descent into the flat lands over canal bridges and built up area approaching the Rhine. The river is the natural border between France and Germany and we would cross it at Neuenberg am Rhein but unfortunately came across a huge road block. I couldn't see the bridge since the build up of stationary vehicles with tall trucks but could tell from the GPS's we had a few miles to go to cross and could only assume there would be some kind of road works on or near the bridge itself. We contemplated finding an alternative route as some of the car drivers were turning around, it was such a hot afternoon and remaining stationary meant cooking in the sun. Soon though realising little traffic was coming the other way I could see just enough for us to make progress by filtering on the other side of the road by moving quite quickly before nipping in between trucks and buses just as the traffic started to appear in the opposite direction. Rob went first, I followed, and we kind of leap-frogged our way for quite a few miles to a roundabout with road works just before the bridge and the border crossing. I love crossing the Rhine, such a wide river compared to any found in the UK and it had been fun yet hot work cheating the traffic, so by now both needing fuel and drinks with a slight detour we pulled into a garage claiming a spot in the shade alongside other bikers to cool down. 

After a short ride we were soon heading into the Black Forest region of Germany along the L131 back in to mountainous twisty forested roads. Most bikers enjoy the North/South B500, but in the past I've found it to be a little too busy so this West/East route was a much quieter alternative. A lunch stop was beckoning after coming across the very accommodating Haldenhof Bergastof cafe/guesthouse at the top of a valley that looked strangely familiar to me. I was sure I'd been in Hinterheubronn along the road to Neuenweg before. I ran in and found the nice seating area outside in the garden overlooking the valley. I grabbed a seat in the shade and Rob soon joined me. The more I thought of it I remembered I'd eaten at this very restaurant with Peter while returning from a Swiss Harley rally back in 2010. I can't recall what myself an Peter had eaten back then, but this time myself and Rob tucked in to a very nice steak salad. While returning to the bikes we stopped for a conversation with a great guy who as an ex-BMW rider asking about our bikes and where we had ridden from, it turned out he was on holiday visiting his German relatives and as a Physician had moved to Maine, USA many years ago. It was quite amusing how after 20 minutes of chatting about bikes he suddenly realised he'd left his wife alone in the restaurant!

By late afternoon it was getting really hot so good to keep the air moving and stay cooler with some more miles through the Black Forest and then on to ride a lap around Lake Titisee. There was an option to stop near the lake and I was tempted to get an ice-cream but it it did seem quite touristy full of families and really quite crowded so kept moving and started to climb up the side of a hill ridge toward Lenzkirch turning off down a lane toward Saig bei Lenzkirch. Tonight we would be staying at the very nice Boutique Hotel Ochsen and managed to get access to one of the garages to park the bikes for a fee. I have to say being out of town the parking would have been safe, but with a slope (I like to use the centre stand) and the opportunity to unload/load the bikes in shade made it appealing. Fantastic room with a view and a empty swimming pool. Riding in it was +30 degrees so a cool dip before a dinner on the terrace of Goulash and 'Spaetzle' the German pasta. A very pleasant evening with a short walk after we were looking forward to crossing borders into Switzerland and Austria tomorrow.

A warm night and no air conditioning in my room despite the heatwave across Europe it was spacious and cool enough with the balcony door open to get a good nights sleep. I enjoyed the stay at the quirky Hotel Ochsen nestled in the valley and I have to say the food including breakfast was great too, I'd be happy to revisit in the future. Drinking coffee (americano for Rob of course) just inside by the terrace gave us chance to familiarise ourselves with todays route consisting of a crossing in to Switzerland briefly, then on through Austria with options to visit the Rhine Falls, and our second mountain pass - the Arlberg. The garage idea paid off, leaving most of the luggage on the bikes overnight and by now with blue skies, the air heating up, it was good to suit up inside and make a quick departure south-east through the town of Lenzkirch. 

The early part of the ride was amazing winding along empty roads of the Black Forest on the 315 through Bonndorf eventually climbing up high to reveal what I first thought were clouds in the distance but quickly realised we were looking at our first view of the Alps. Pulling over at Stühlingen right on the German-Swiss border to take a picture you can just make out the snowy peaks on full iPhone zoom above. Ride With Us had provided an option to visit the Rhine falls at Schafhausen and it felt odd to be considering the river again. I didn't realise the Rhine flowed through Switzerland, always relating it solely to Germany but sure enough as we rounded a bend we could see the river with parking spaces on the side of the valley. Parking up taking two of the many motorcycle spaces while eyeing the spectacular waterfalls across the valley and on removing helmet and earplugs could hear the loud roar of water. 

It was an enjoyable few hours at Rheinfall, and a quick trip down the steps to the river we realised we could get a boat out to gain a better experience so opted to climb back up the steps again (in 30 degree heat dripping with sweat) to change out of our riding gear. Thankfully, I always carry a long thin cable lock to thread through jacket, trousers and helmet to loop around the tail rack. Rob did something similar with his gear, I'm sure the bikes and gear would be safe but added precautionary measures of disc/u-locks too. The falls were amazing, the largest in Europe and well worth the 15 minute (7 Euro each) boat trip. The water spray had a welcome cooling effect. 

Later, with me leading out of Schafhausen town following my GPS, it was very slow progress riding through many sets of traffic lights in built up towns and villages. Over the intercom Rob questioned if we were really on the intended route since his GPS was trying to use a different direction that seemed to direct to the motorway so I managed to re-route through more pleasing scenery on the way to a motorway junction. Fortunately both of us had pre-bought Swiss and Austrian Toll Vignettes (electronic not sticker) before the trip to allow us to use both motorway networks.

It was a late lunch stopping by the Restaurant Schuetzenhaus-schoenholzerswilens (a mouthful in itself!) outside under a shady umbrella and I sensed we had restricted menu options when asking for an omelette was offered a very nice Swiss style pork salad instead. I had the impression a couple of Brits passing through on motorcycles were a bit of a novelty when Rita the very nice English speaking owner was curious to know our thoughts of Switzerland and where we were heading to convey to other guests. It was getting quite late so we didn't hang around and moved on, riding across country for a short while before joining the motorway for a couple of hours and I recall an impressive long downhill section revealing the bright blue Lake Constance (Bodensee) shimmering with sail boats and other craft ahead of us on the left. 

A nice run by the lake and into Austria and so tempted to stop and grab an ice-cream but both decided to keep moving and rejoin the motorway for another hour or so heading toward Innsbruck. By now the motorway work was tiring and I was a little disoriented in the heat so we pulled over at a service station to refuel and rehydrate just off the S16 at Klosterle to try and find the Arlberg pass. It turned out we had taken a wrong turn somewhere and missed taking the scenic cross-country L200. By now Rob took a decision to head straight to the hotel so I decided to have a go and try and take directions from another biker for the pass. It was suggested it was only a few miles down the road. In the end I did enjoy a pleasant evening ride through the Arlberg to compensate my disappointment of missing the L200 and Rob and I both arrived at Hotel Reschenhof at about the same time parking in the underground car park nearby and only just making it in time for our evening meal allocation. 

Today's 235 miles were very mixed. The first half of the day enjoyable, the latter after lunch not so good with a little too much motorway. The use of 'shaping' ('via points') instead of more fixed waypoints to direct us to the L200 the likely reason we lost the correct route. The Garmin GPS units often treat shaping points (represented by blue dots) as optional and do not announce them so once off the official route we had no easy way to realise the error. However, given the great time spent at the Rhine falls I believe we would have arrived much later and missed the evening meal anyway, so it all worked out well in the end - there are only so many ride hours in a day. Our inclusive evening meal with beers as extra were a welcome end to a fun albeit tiring day. 

Part 3 - Timmelsjoch, Top Mountain Museum and into Italy