Santuario de Torreciudad
Wednesday morning both a bit bleary eyed and tired we discussed todays plans over breakfast. I fancied a ride south to visit some lakes/reservoirs I'd spotted on the map but didn't fancy a full day so explained to Rob this option of returning sometime early afternoon. Since Rob had issues with his visor breaking on both sides he opted to have a day off the bike do some bike maintenance e.g. oil the chain and try and make a more secure visor fix and rest up a bit. A wise choice I thought, considering his first long bike tour for a long while it would set him up for the remaining days riding further into Spain. Just before leaving I noticed a tower and cathedral marked on the map in the hotel lobby that looked interesting, so by 10am I was heading south in bright sunshine along the A-138 (the A being Aragon) with large bodies of azure blue water of the Mediano and El Grado reservoirs to on my left both connected by the Rio Cinca and a huge dam at one end near the town Ligüerre de Cinca.
The land around the reservoirs seemed quite barren and dry almost desert like and I soon saw a sign directing me to 'Santuario de Torreciudad' inviting me to take a twisty road up over a high headland overlooking El Grado. Parking up in a covered bay I changed into shorts and left my bike gear secured to the bike and wandered over to look look at the huge modern brick built building. What immediately caught my eye was the magnificent view across the reservoir and snow capped mountain peaks on the horizon.
As I walked a man said hello and I assumed he was British but it turned out he was from Belgium on a visit with his wife. He explained he had a holiday home in the area and was a regular visitor to the Sanctuary, built in the 1970's and informed me the mountain peak I could see in the distance was Monte Perdido - the lost mountain. The sanctuary is dedicated to the virgin Mary and represented by a sculpture of Mary and child overlooking the Rio Cinca. As a sickly child aged 2 Josemaría Escrivá de Balaguer was taken to the shrine by his mother and was subsequently cured of his illness. In later life as the founder of the controversial Opus Dei sect he built the sanctuary in gratitude to the virgin.
I found the shrine fascinating being built almost entirely out of 20th century brickwork. The modern style of the pillars and structures were very unusual as I walked around the square. I went down the path at the edge to view the mediaeval tower below that overlooks the El Grado reservoir. On the way back I met up with the Belgian man again who introduced me to his Wife and also a Priest who didn't speak English but the Belgian man translated between us. The priest seemed amazed I had ridden a 'moto' all the way from the UK and after saying goodbye I spent some time sitting inside listening to a serman in Spanish while looking at the huge sculptured alterpiece to reveal different scenes of the Virgin Mary. The inside roof and balcony areas gave the impression of being carved in some way until I realised they were made entirely of brickwork too.
Later, I wandered back to the bike and changed back into my bike gear where I quickly realised my schoolboy error. I had left my boots under the bike and they were now swarming with small ants. I tried to rid the boots of ants but ended up putting them on and hoping they didn't bite but did feel them itching as I rode off. I returned via the A-139 tracking a river north but soon realised I was running low on fuel. My Navigator found me a solitary petrol pump at a small station near the junction with the N-260 not far from the tunnel that leads up to Campo. As I took off my gloves I turned around and noticed a group of at least 6 Spanish bikers suddenly arrive behind me. I quickly grabbed the fuel nozzle before I'd detached my tank bag because I didn't fancy a long wait in 30 degree heat with itchy feet while they all fuelled up. Further down the road on a fast downhill section they were travelling faster and having fun so I moved over to let them pass easily prompting each one of them to do the right leg wave as a thanks. Later at the bottom of another fast road section near a roundabout I saw some gathered around a Police biker stood there with his notebook. Oh dear, I guess I was lucky travelling alone, he may well have pulled me over instead I thought.
Back in Ainsa around 2.30pm, as I turned on to the roundabout outside Hotel Mesa I saw Rob wave while sat looking all relaxed in the shade drinking beer at the restaurant. By now all I could think of was getting those itchy ant infested boots off, cool down drinking a beer with Rob. He explained he'd had a good morning sorting a few things out including the visor problem and eaten a good lunch. I ordered his recommendation a plate of lamb chops and egg salad with a cool beer. Most enjoyable sitting in the shade people watching. Later in the afternoon I relaxed on the balcony for a while before preparing our bikes for tomorrow's ride. I packed some gear to be ready for an early start before a light meal of Spanish omelette in a baguette over the road at the lively Hotel Sanchez followed by a pleasant walk up the steps to the old town overlooking the river. We called it a day soon after to get some sleep after not before grabbing a a beer from the bar to watch one of the Euro football matches.
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