Wiggly Wales in the Summer Sun

Recently, I have been watching the latest Nick Sanders YouTube series 'Edge of Europe' and I must say if you haven't seen it give it a go, its a lot of fun, his loose editing style and slightly dishevelled appearance after wild camping on 'wiggly' routes really has me in stitches at times. Nick is one of life's characters full of enthusiasm for travel I can't help but love the guy, and do hope to cross paths with him one day, maybe over a 'marvellous flat white' perhaps. 

What a great Summer for motorcycling! Myself and Rob heading off into the Dolomites late June for almost a fortnight away (see my 6 part write up, with videos here) and some nice sunny ride outs too. A week or so back on a warm blue-sky day I couldn't resist a full-day ride across to the Welsh coast just west of Machynlleth cutting across some empty lanes before riding along the estuary near Aberdovey, up through Tywyn and onto Barmouth. Rob was up for it too and while preparing the route I messaged him to say bring your panniers to change into swimwear, and 'don't forget your bucket and spade'. Rob duly responded with the message below, I passed on the route to him and we met up at 8.30 in Cleobury Mortimer for a fabulous ride, thankfully he'd thought better of it, and left the builders bucket and garden spade behind, still hoping to let the speedo's get an airing though.

While riding through the little town of Llandidloes we pulled into a parking space outside Shimmers Coffee House on Long Bridge St. The owner Michael a really gregarious fun guy hailing from South Africa explained the coffee house wasn't actually open yet, a new venture he had just started up he would be offering bed and breakfast etc and a welcome stay for passing bikers too. He did serve us a very nice coffee though, and gave us a tour. I have to say a great little stop over with bike parking inside an alleyway too. Ideal for someone coming into Wales from further afield than us. Stop off for a coffee if you are in the area and say hello. Great guy.

It was a 'marvellous' ride along that Dyffi estuary road continuing on through to Tywyn and the outskirts of Barmouth along a very picturesque coastal road. I had read in ABR it was possible to ride across Barmouth bridge (viaduct) so after a few attempts using the 'What3Words' app we found the entrance (deeply.motoring.knots). It all seemed a bit odd, crossing with cyclists and pedestrians but it's perfectly legal we continued on, just fitting through the gates at the end nicely.  

Neither myself and Rob had been to Barmouth before and both quite impressed, a very clean and pretty seaside front with nice restaurants. It was a busy day in school holidays though, just about managing to park the bikes in an empty motorcycle bay,  and then changed into shorts using our panniers to store gear and spent an afternoon sat eating Fish and Chips followed by a cool paddle in the sea.

To start our return we ran along the A496 estuary in-land and took the grade 2 listed wooden toll bridge at Penmaenpool.  It's a quid each for motorcycles to cross, and always worth it to get another look across the Mawddach river estuary as it widens out to sea.  

Riding the 'Hellfire Pass', (Bwlch y Groes) was a fun diversion too, a narrow lane that rises up and over the Aran mountains. A glorious view from the top and well worth it, this time I took a slightly different way since we hadn't come directly from the Bala side. Later, in the afternoon by now the traffic had eased and we completed our run back into Shropshire quite late covering a total of 235 miles. 

The following weekend I set off alone to ride down into the Wye valley. This time the weather was cooler, and slightly more comfortable as I did a nice 'ad-hoc' run through B roads down past Stanford Bridge and onto Bromyard. I guess, slightly inspired by the Nick Sanders videos it was good to just have an adventure and make the route up as I went instead of pre-planning beforehand. Riding on to Hereford, then Hay on Wye I realised I hadn't ridden some of these minor roads in years and it was wonderful to roll on and off the power on very quiet roads. The freedom my GS gives always makes me feel good again. Continuing on through Hay I had it in mind to stop at the Honey Pot cafe at Bronllys arriving at the same time as a couple two up on their smart looking 1976 Kawasaki Z900 and spent some time chatting over lunch. They were out for a short ride coming up from Monmouth, unfortunately I didn't get their names but enjoyed their tales of touring two up into France and the Alps on the Zed. It's great to meet new people and hope to meet them again some other time.

Sadly, I didn't get a photo of the Kawasaki, but had a good look, obviously no fuel injection and it did make me wonder if they needed to re-jet the carbs for the Alps. It must be great to own an old classic and I do remember older mates owning one, and me staring at them in the shop window of Cradley Heath Kawasaki centre many moons ago as a teenager. They still look great today. On leaving I took the road toward Builth Wells but soon found bikers flashing and one guy signalling to turn around. An accident and tailback with emergency services, so I took a nearby B road heading back toward Leominster a road I don't think I had ever ridden before. It was a 'wiggle' all the way, choosing to take a left before Leominster just to keep the fun going. I passed through Mortimers Cross, then Lucton and on the lovely B4362 and B4361 through Richards Castle and around Ludlow grinning all the way. My ride back had me standing on the pegs uphill on the wonderful climb through Caynham to join Clee Hill, turning off towards Bridgnorth and then after Kinlet through Button Oak and now since the bridge is open again (yee-haa)  .. back home via Bewdley. Perfect!

😎  

Dolomites part 6 - The way home. Rhineland, Vianden and onto Rye

By now it was Wednesday, the 11th day of the 'Ride with Us' route (12th day since leaving home) and after the beers last night, and time spent trying to figure out how to close the window blind (almost calling room service for help) with much needed relief of the air-conditioning I awoke slightly dehydrated. Grabbing my drink bottle with paracetamol I tried to ease my sore head while reviewing todays GPS route. This ride would take us North-West into Luxembourg, cutting across more wonderful German countryside. I soon met Rob outside seated on the terrace. Having already prepped his bike, I followed suit before making several trips back and forth to sample many of the breakfast offerings including a very nice mini 'black forest gateau' with lots of strong coffee. Another hot day as I looked up across the top of the typical German 'Fachwerk' timbered buildings there wasn't a cloud in the sky today and we would soon be riding north through the pleasant country roads before the build up of early morning rush-hour traffic near Pforzheim. Somewhere on the outskirts I lost sight of Rob in my mirrors and not finding a suitable place to stop continued on and before long found myself on the motorway without him, heading towards Karlsruhe.  

Agreeing to wait at the next waypoint for each other a good few miles ahead I continued on until the exit off the motorway before fuelling up and finding the waypoint near a bakery in the town of Wasgau in Rhineland. I found some shade to park near a Japanese restaurant and called Rob who had stopped somewhere quite far behind. We both agreed it best to continue on and not wait around, by now the temperature reaching more than 40 degrees I needed to keep moving. After a very scenic ride through the forests and farmland I stopped at a level crossing near the pretty town of Hinterweidenthal, just east of Saarbrucken to consult the GPS and my map while waiting for a train to pass. A guy on a Yamaha Tenere pulled up near me and offered help and welcomed me to Germany. It turned out he was heading to work, and suggested it might be too hot for motorcycling before disappearing off in to the distance. Really? .. Do you reckon Fritz? I thought, sarcastically, the heat really getting to me now.

At over 40 degrees I was cooking and everywhere I stopped the sweat would be running down my back, the jacket wide open to get some air flow, my legs sticking to the inside of my gore-tex trousers all I could do was keep moving to get relief. I considered finding shade or better still a cafe with air-con to wait for Rob, but thinking back to the leap-frogging on the Tonale there would be no guarantee we could meet up again so easily. Rob had his own GPS unit with the route loaded and I was sure he'd find his way to the hotel eventually, my only concern would be if he picked up a puncture since I was the only one carrying a plug kit and compressor, and I was the only one with a paper map - a lesson for the future I thought. Still, there wasn't much I could do about that, Rob did have roadside bike recovery if needed, so I pressed on with the ride alone. I spent the early afternoon following the planned route along fast motorway sections with steep long climbs up and across river bridges trying to keep that air flow at above 70mph to stay cool. At one point I  crossed the Mosel river near a bend with vast vineyards spread out across the valley. I thought about leaving the motorway to ride alongside the river but in that heat the motorway was a means to an end and after the railway crossing I didn't stop riding until I came a cross the only service station I could find at Mehring.

Pulling in to the services I was invited to park under the shade next to a German guy who spoke good English riding a very nice Harley Davidson Softail Breakout. A brief chat, nice chap, he was heading home to Bitberg on the way from getting the HD serviced. He kindly offered to look after my bike while I grabbed a drink and food from the restaurant. After he left and waved farewell, with the bike shielding me I dropped my trousers to cool off while eating a quick snack and ice-cold lemonade, thankfully I didn't get arrested for flashing and after the break got to ride along the Mosel river for a short while. It was good to get off the motorway now and into pretty countryside again with some nice twisty road sections up and over hills between Bitburg and Mettendorf before crossing the border in to Luxembourg and dropping down in to the river valley at Vianden. I filled up with fuel on the outskirts before locating the Hotel Belle-Vue on the left. So pleased I had covered the 200 miles by 2.30pm getting in some shade at last and giving chance of afternoon rest. A swim in the indoor pool I got chatting to a group of GS riders, UK Police motorcyclists who regularly stay in Vianden each year and ride around the region using it as a base. What a great idea I thought, the Belle-Vue was a perfect stay with good sized rooms and a large secure indoor garage.

After my swim while waiting for Rob, I sat outside on the terrace with a beer and finally ordered that elusive omelette I'd hoped for throughout the trip before taking a pleasant riverside walk. I had been in in Vianden many years ago on a HOG tour, and impressed with the place so it was good to be back enjoying the view of the walled castle high above the river. I received a message from Rob who was making progress stopping off a few times including lunch at a nice cafe he'd found. We met up in the evening for dinner and drinks with a very pleasant surprise seeing Martin and Sally arrive soon after. A great couple we swapped tales at dinner and how they had hit worse rain than us before the Bernina causing their unplanned stopover. It was an early start, 7am the earliest access for breakfast, the bikes pre-loaded we had to be at the Channel tunnel check in by 2:30pm so said our farewells and hope to catch up with Martin and Sally again sometime. Hopefully they'll call us up for a ride around Wales in the future.

It was a pleasant early morning ride to start the 250 mile journey through the wonderful Wallonia and into the city of Bastogne where I couldn't help but think of that freezing cold Episode 6 of Band Of Brothers. It was ironic how the temperature dropped as we rode through the Ardennes forest on the outskirts. Now 13 degrees, I felt quite cold after yesterdays heat as we climbed a hill looking across distant countryside and farmland. We made good speed on the motorway, crossing into Belgium and then off the motorway a few hours later for a sunny ride into Calais. We both made the terminal in good time and without any delay crossed back into the UK on an earlier train. 

Our final night in Kent would be a twenty minute ride near Rye where Rob had had booked us into the very nice Flackley Ash Hotel. Neither of us wishing to ride the long route home today, and the thought of that M25 in this heat did not appeal at all. Another indoor swimming pool to cool off in, and a pleasant evening meal in a typically English setting recounting some great moments and fantastic roads on this latest adventure. The following day 'Chat GPT ' suggested a return ride to exclude all motorways so after manually plotting the waypoints in my Navigator we had another hot but fun ride home west grabbing breakfast at the Route 1066 bikers cafe and then joining the A272 up to Newbury before getting back to where it had all started in the Cotswolds. A total of 2500 miles and I must say using 'Ride with Us' a great time-saving option, provided us with excellent accommodation and facilities. All in all we had very few route issues (the shaping point problem we encountered and maybe a few too many motorway miles) the whole adventure worked out really well and the Dolomites being more enjoyable than either of us could have hoped! 😎

Not Possible!

Dolomites part 5 - Seven passes in one day, across the Flüela and into Germany

At dinner we came across Martin and Sally a couple also on a self-guided tour arranged by Ride with Us. They arrived at the Hotel Italia a day after, coming across from the Baltics on their own 17 day tour aboard their smart looking BMW K1600 'Bagger'. At breakfast we discovered they were riding the same route out to Pontresina, a small town near Saint Moritz in Switzerland and Martin commented how he'd found some of those tight hairpin passes a real challenge two up and understandably concerned about some of the todays passes and the weather forecast. Knowing how challenging they were solo, myself and Rob agreed it would be a busy day, crossing no fewer than seven mountain passes over 220 miles in total, with an option to take in the Gavia up to Bormio. 

Not too sure if the Gavia should be in addition, or instead of, it was billed as the most difficult pass of all, and forecast to hit rain sometime in the day so we all agreed to stick to the planned route and decide if we should choose the Gavia when the time came. Wishing Martin and Sally a good ride myself and Rob said farewell to the hotel staff and set off south back over the wonderful Sella, and then into the Southern Dolomites towards Trento. Already another hot day as we tackled some amazing switchbacks before passing through farmland and eventually descending down into a wide valley overlooking San Michel All'Adige and the Adige river. 

A breathtaking view opened up ahead while descending from the mountains and then crossing the river bridge towards another familiar mountain road I'd ridden back in 2018 the Passo del Tonale. On the way to the pass the traffic was fast moving at times but then slowed intermittently. I'm not sure where exactly, and it may have been before the Adige we hit some road works with a huge stationary queue of traffic. At first it was difficult to filter and pulled up behind a couple of UK registered bikes wondering if there was a way through the hold up. With my astonishment and no doubt those folks sat in cars too, Rob disappeared in to the distance first riding across the grass verge on the left and then the long gravel track parallel to the road. 

I pulled my bike back a little and followed suit not really sure if it was legal, but 'hey ho off we go' I thought, and eventually crept into to rejoin the traffic a good kilometre down the road. At the time I did wonder how Martin would deal with this on that big bagger, two up with Sally. It was a shame I hadn't taken his number to call him up and warn him to find an alternative way. 

Some way ahead of Rob by now I decided to wait at a suitable cafe with shade If I could only find one. After a slight diversion my GPS directed me off the main road and through the very pretty town of Ossana and onto side-streets. Looking up at a junction I had a great view of the huge castle hanging overhead and almost pulled up to get a picture, yet decided to rejoin the main road to continue on as the road climbed up with the spectacular mountain range appearing just around a bend. 

It was hot, even in my mesh jacket I'd changed into near the Adige. Just past Vermiglio overlooking the valley I spotted a lay-by. Pushing 40 degrees now in the midday sun I pulled in and called up Rob on the phone. From his description it sounded like he was some way behind. Nice spot to stop and admire the view I thought, but really uncomfortable without any trees or shade so I threw off my jacket, grabbed my drink flask out of the tank-bag and waited for him to appear. 

Time passes slowly when you are waiting, and Rob called me explaining he had made it to Ponte di Legno waiting at a restaurant on the other side of town. After he spelled the name over the phone a few times, me trying to listen as groups of bikers passed by I could only find an Italian restaurant in Moseley, Birmingham of the same name. 'MOSELEY .. I'M IN BLOODY ITALY NOT BRUM!' I shouted, not noticing the family walking behind. The Dad smiled at me, I reluctantly smiled back in embarrassment and the Mum looked at my registration plate before saying to the child: 'Ahhh .. Inglesie!'. I felt like shouting back 'Yes, Inglesie .. where's Pointy Lego Mrs Italiano any ideas?' but refrained. Looking more carefully at the map Rob was now quite a way west of me and my little detour around Ossana the only explanation as to why we had missed each other.

It didn't take me long to find Rob waiting at the entrance to a very splendid 'ristorante' right by the blue sign (above). Thankfully, it was somewhat cooler here with a blustery refreshing wind while seated on the terrace overlooking the valley, both enjoying a nice pizza, our first of the trip while still in Italy too. Splendid views of the mountain to the west and ahead of us the Stelvio national park to the north. With time pressing on we didn't give the optional Gavia any more thought and continued on up and over the very pleasant Passo'Aprica, a continuation of the Tonale, before heading north toward Bormio and that steep climb up the 2,100 metre high Foscagno and dark grey storm clouds ahead. As I came out of a dark tunnel a shimmering waterfall of rain confronted me, only wearing summer gear without waterproofs I called up Rob who was some way behind to warn him. While inside the next tunnel I decided to shelter at one of the SOS refuge lay-bys, Rob was doing the same in another tunnel by now too. Not a nice environment I thought, grimy, dirty and dark and difficult to see the roll bag fasteners as I swapped out my mesh jacket for the rukka and grabbed my waterproof gloves taking great care to ensure I hadn't left anything behind. As I left the tunnel a few miles on it did seem a waste of time revealing bright sunshine and no rain, but only temporary. Just west of Bormio in the ski-town of Isolaccia on the Foscagno as it started to rain again I pulled in to a small cafe near a pharmacy, with the green cross sign an ideal marker to let Rob know where I was. Not long after a warm coffee, we both tackled the Forcola pass and then that wonderful Bernina in to Switzerland.

Passo del Bernina climbs up to a high 2,328 metres and despite the damp after the rain the sun was breaking through the clouds by now giving light to amazing views across the valley and at times I could see right across and below the road just climbed. I tried to spot Rob following as I whipped round each bend to reveal more of a climb up into the clouds and passed by the spectacular Lago Bianco reservoir but couldn't make him out amongst other bikes. Good fun on my GS while set to dynamic mode, just rolling the throttle on and off in 4th gear and then, while stationary, at a temporary set of lights Rob caught up and overtook and I followed the Tiger with its distinct growl down the rest of the pass. 

Arriving at the Hotel Schweizerhof a little too late to explore properly, the receptionist lady informed us we had parked in the wrong spot and needed to get a move on to make it to dinner. Our table for four was set to include Martin and Sally too, but while eating we received word they had phoned the hotel and abandoned the route due to bad weather in the mountains and opted to stay the night near Bolzano. Both of us tired at over 220 miles on some very technical but sublime mountain roads we left the restaurant for our rooms and with heavy eyes tried to read some of the Le Carre I had bought with me, only getting through two paragraphs before giving up and falling in to a deep sleep as heavy rain lashed against the window. 

The Hotel Schweizerhof in this pretty town of Pontresina was a pleasant stay with a great underground car park ideal for the bikes and a nice cosy room too but over breakfast Rob revealed his disappointment at not having a wash basin only a shower. I found it odd the shower didn't have a curtain too, but took this to be the Swiss way. While settling our drinks bill Rob mentioned it to the receptionist who stated the basin was in fact inside a closet. I don't think Rob ever solved the mystery of the missing basin, settling for a shave in the shower instead! It was a bright morning albeit a little damp from last nights rain as I wandered around outside for brief a look around before loading my bike. Today we would head into Germany, first in the direction of Saint Moritz and then over the final mountain pass of the trip - the Swiss Flüelapass toward Davos. 

I'd crossed the Flüela back in 2018 with Steve while on the way to Davos and at that time it was raining quite heavily. Today with sunshine it was a different affair, much more fun and fresh at the start of the day with good weather we were really enjoying the snake like road. At 2,300 metres high the craggy grey mountains seemed familiar from last time as we stopped to take in the view and Rob need to take a pee below the road. Quite amusing when a family in a motor-home pulled up and walked down the path much to Rob's embarrassment (and no doubt theirs too). 

After the pass our route tracked the Rhine via motorway, and crossed into Lichtenstein briefly before heading into Austria toward Bregenz and then into Germany. Ride with Us had suggested lunch at the wonderful Steinhauser bakery in Diepoldshofen (Leutkirch). Parking up and changing into shorts to cool off we enjoyed a nice salad and drink while sat outside, both very tempted to try the bread and cakes too all made from local produce and the wheat from surrounding farms. A perfect lunch stop before crossing country in a north westerly direction of fast country roads spread between farmland, forests and small German hamlets. 

Later, while passing through Zweifalten, in Baden-Württemberg we stopped at the next suggested bakery parking up behind the German Baroque Abbey, and as I recall next to a twin cam GS in a very tatty state.  It was good to relax here enjoying ice-cream sat in the sofa style chairs outside. A shame we wouldn't have time to look around the Abbey I thought, but it was hot and late afternoon by now so keen to get to the hotel and out of the sun. We soon rolled in to the popular Hotel Gasthof Hasen at around 6pm, completing the final leg of this 232 mile ride. It took us a short-while to locate the discrete multi-story building to securely park the bikes and the rooms were modern with much needed air-conditioning. Later, a pleasant restaurant seated outside in the garden terrace for beers and meal with a few games of 'Monopoly Deal' to follow (I thought I had lost this card-game on the first day and despite searching all of my luggage the cards turned up while in Herrenberg, tucked under my Vario pannier leaver). Another pleasant stay with very friendly staff after riding through some very diverse scenery. 

 *Since returning home I have to say I have looked up that Italian restaurant in Moseley the menu looks really good!

Part 6 - Vianden, Rhineland and on to Rye

The Dolomites part 4 - Weekend of 'Dolomiti' rides

Cortina figure of 8

Early Friday as I threw back the curtains and walked out on to the balcony I realised the hotel concierge was right when last night he said dark skies and rain would be replaced with a bright blue sky today. It was perfect riding weather out there, yet after the miles covered during the last week very tempting to have a lazy day hanging around Corvara and use the hotel and spa facilities instead. The journey is all about the Dolomites and the opportunity to ride and explore some more would be too tempting for us. The itinerary for Friday offered a loop around the legendary Sella Ronda but while checking in to the Hotel yesterday we were told the Gardena pass would be closed for road works on Friday re-opening again for the weekend. So, deferring todays route and swapping it out for the Saturday one instead, we selected the nice figure of eight route with a crossover at Cortina d'Ampezzo. 

It was much cooler in the mountains now, so I stuffed my mesh jacket in to the empty pannier ready for the afternoon heat, it was so good to lose some weight off the bike and not have to strap on the roll bag now. With the route loaded on both GPS's we headed out of town and into the mountains above Corvara and very soon riding with other bikers across the passes, first the Valparola before it links up with the stunning Falzarego near Cortina. At over 2000 metres almost as high as yesterdays mountain roads in Austria, it was all I could do to concentrate, the amazing scenery would be a constant distraction while heading out to find Lake Misurina.  

On the way to the lake my GPS took us along an unpaved gnarly trail across a wooden bridge and beyond it looked a bit steep, uneven with quite a few ruts. Taking in the view I had in mind to grab a photo of the mountain beyond the valley (above) leaving Rob to continue on. Over the intercom we discussed how accessible the road was as it disappeared around a bend. Like last year in the Pyrenees it seemed my Navigator favours these rough mystery trails, even if I don't at first! In the end I switched the bikes mode to enduro, stood on the pegs, gripped the tank with my knees and climbed upwards and onto the main road again with Rob following behind.  

Another picturesque lunch stop pulling up next to a crowd of German bikers right on the lake shore described as a 'pearl in the heart of the Dolomites' and I have to say I agree. A stunning location surrounded by the mountains. Rob managed to grab an outside table at a busy pizzeria right on the shore and so we both ordered a salad with asparagus and spent a good hour taking in the scenery. After lunch we took off to find the Passo Tre Croci named after 3 crosses representing a mother and two sons who died crossing it during the winter of 1789. Despite the sad history it was fun riding the short section we did, and well worth the visit.  

Video: Mark and Rob on the Falzarego, Lake Misurina and Passo Giau. Best with sound and select 1080p in settings.

Near the pass there is a scenic toll road I'd hoped to ride but unfortunately after pulling in the narrow entry between the booths on a slight incline I was told 'It was not possible' and was passed a piece of paper with a website address it seems we had to book a time-slot on line first. At first I thought the young woman was joking so asked how much, she kept repeating 'Not possible'. Not being able to turn my bike around I asked her to lift the barrier so I could ride back out. 'Not Possible' she shouted again. I repeated, explaining my predicament and still she shouted 'Not Possible!'. Rob, who was behind me found this quite amusing not having entered the narrow space yet we were laughing over the intercom when I decided to turn my engine off, sit with folded arms and when she asked me again to move I shouted back 'It's not Possible !' With a coach full of tourists behind, the woman had no choice but to give in and lift the barrier. For a moment I was tempted to ride on up the pass, but decided better of it and did a u-turn to head back down the pass laughing and shouting 'Not Possible' over the intercom.

Our Friday ride of fun continued on as we returned back through Cortina and out on to the very twisty Passo Giau stopping for a coffee and cake at the restaurant at the foot of the impressive Nuvolau mountain that rises to more than 2,500 metres (pictured below). The view of the Dolomites are most impressive here and you can see right across to Marmolada. While admiring the scenery outside, Rob introduced a biker couple he'd met from Milan who were quite amazed we had ridden all the way from the UK. For a while we exchanged biker touring stories and the places we'd been and seen before heading off in the direction of the wonderful Colle Santa Lucia the walled town perched on a hill above. Everywhere I looked each view was worthy of a photo, hard to resist stopping at each lay by to get my phone out and take a snap.    

We made it back into the hotel quite early and after a swim in the pool met at the bar for beers just before dinner seated at our allotted table. I did enjoy the very nice ragu pasta and wine while both recounting the days events, the wooden bridge trail near Misurina and the 'It's not possible' moment adding to the amusement of a perfect days ride.  

The Dolomites part 3 - Timmelsjoch, Top Mountain Museum and into Italy

An early start on day five of the tour (day six from home) and Ride with Us had set up a nice dog-leg route in a westerly direction to pick up the Timmelsjoch mountain pass with an option to visit the famous Top mountain motorcycle museum before tracking back south-east across the Italian border and in to the Dolomites. A 7.30 breakfast meet had our wheels rolling at around 8.30. So far there had been some long days and arriving late evening on Wednesday and almost missing the evening meal we were both keen to make the most of today and arrive at our hotel in Corvara a bit earlier if possible. It would be be a shorter journey around 165 miles mostly in mountains thankfully only a few of those miles on the motorway. 

Alas though, after leaving on time the Thursday morning rush-hour traffic through Innsbruck would be our first challenge. It started to feel our early plans had been scuppered after becoming separated while filtering. I phoned Rob while moving and he said he was heading toward the A12 motorway slip-road. I had lost him somewhere near the city so continued on for quite a few miles in the traffic heading west, eventually joining the motorway close to the river 'Inn'. Fortunately, the in-helmet phone connection while riding allowed us to agree a meet at the planned motorway exit but thankfully just as I joined the A12 and passed a truck I spotted 'Americano Rob' and the Tiger straight ahead so quite relieved to keep moving without losing time locating each other. A good save we commented while at a brief stop near Sankt Sigmund im Sellrain to check our general direction. After yesterdays confusion and missing some of the route, today I would be double checking the direction the GPS was heading before starting the climb and following behind other bikers all weaving our way up and down valleys with the sun shining on this very pleasant morning. 

Video: Mark and Rob riding the Timmelsjoch

Riding the Timmelsjoch is a fantastic affair as captured in the video (above) climbing up high at 2,500 metres into the clouds the surface remains smooth with fast straight sections before switching back on the hairpins spaced between other long sweeping turns. Good fun even though our bikes were fully loaded with luggage. I'd ridden the pass before on two occasions. The first in the opposite direction back in 2013 with a storm brewing in the late evening only just passing through the gate before it closes for the night, and then again in 2018 I wasn't feeling too well after an evening on the beer the night before with Steve. On both occasions I'd missed stopping at the crosspoint and visiting the famous motorcycle museum, so intended to stop and take time to look this time.

After parking up overlooking the mountainside you are confronted with the huge futuristic two story wooden framed building that spans a kind of 'L 'shape wrapping around the cross point toll booths. By now both having worked up an appetite it was good to sit outside at the restaurant in the cool air and order a very nice lunch while admiring the mountain scenery and watching other bikers arriving and departing through the crosspoint. I can highly recommend the very reasonably priced gourmet burger, and Rob commented on how he enjoyed his meal too. A perfectly timed lunch stop before heading into the museum where 15 euro gains access to the best motorcycle museum I've ever visited. The exhibition is well worth it for any biker interested in the classics. There are over 580 bikes to look at from all over the world including Norton's, Moto Guzzis, Harley Davidsons and even a rare collection of Ferrari two strokes. I don't think I'd ever seen quite a variety in one place before with really fascinating odd looking machines and even the famous world's fastest Indian ridden by Burt Munro at the Bonneville salt flats. 

After looking at the wonderful exhibits when I returned outside I noticed it had been raining with grey clouds closing in around the mountain. It was possible with an onset of bad weather the pass would close forcing a return back down to complete our journey with a huge diversion avoiding the mountain pass altogether. I messaged Rob who was still in the museum and later explained my concern. It looked like other bikers were quickly donning rain suits and joining a queue to get through the booth so we decided to ride our bikes through immediately and get the rain gear on after. It's always worth remembering the toll booths or pass gates can shut at anytime for safety, so when the weather turns for the worst up on the mountain its best to ride on when you can. 

A perfect ride up and over the pass and I believe the best of which is after the crosspoint heading toward Italy. The ride down the other side would be through the very beautiful Passiria valley at San Leonardo and then into South Tyrol. The sky had brightened again leaving us to marvel at some of the most fantastic vistas before starting to climb again. Having crossed from Austria into Italy now, the passes are referred in Italian e.g. we had just come over Passo Rombo (Timmelsjoch) and now on Passo Giovo (Jaufen). 

Another amazing panorama ahead while rising to just over 2000 metres revealing impressive gorges and valleys lit up in the sunshine. Later, the sky turned dark again as we sensed a late afternoon storm brewing as is usual this time of year. On our descent we commented on a few flashes of lightning in the distance and while stationary at a temporary set of traffic lights the mirrors revealed clouds chasing us down the mountain as captured in the selfie picture (below). Very soon they would catch up, starting with a little light rain, and then later after a fuel and ice-cream stop near Brunico large hail stones were dropping pinging off my helmet and visor and stinging my arms and legs. Over the intercom I could tell Rob was suffering too but with amusement and gritted teeth we continued on. Thankfully, the storm didn't get any worse and passed by with hail turning to light rain travelling along the SS244 toward Corvara. Those jagged sheer vertical cliffs rising up ahead were unmistakably those I'd seen in pictures of the Dolomites, but with wet roads, early evening dusk and the tightening bends I needed full concentration on the road ahead.

At this time we did experience a car driver (in a BMW) who insisted on riding both our tails very close in a dangerous way so we both agreed to pull over and let the car pass. Despite this, given our invite even with indicators the driver hesitated and started to pull over with us too! 'Welcome to Italy' I thought, but soon after we were riding alone again on warm traffic free roads arriving in Corvara a short time later pulling directly into the small but sheltered Hotel Italia parking area just before it started raining quite heavily. Four nights half-board at this one, and could now rest up a bit assured by the staff at check-in that these dark, rainy skies would be clear by the morning. Settling in to each spacious room and just about making it to the wellness pool in time for a swim to cool off before it closed. We had finally made it to the Dolomites and celebrated with a cool glass of beer each (the very good Bira Forst) and sat down to enjoy our four course dinner while reviewing the days ride and looking forward to a more relaxed luggage free day tomorrow.  

Part 4 - Weekend of 'Dolomiti' rides.