Ring of Kerry - Part 3 - Skellig Ring and on to Dingle

A groggy start to the morning sorted out with a full breakfast at the Heights Hotel trying to recover from the night before in Killarney. After a post-mortem on the nights events, a laugh over breakfast trying to remember what happened we managed to check out and get our wheels rolling just past 10 am, but first, in the car park I noticed a Lamp warning light on the bike dash, and Mark confirmed my headlight bulb had blown. Must have been these bumpy roads. I didn't fancy riding without a headlight, so we stopped at the petrol station down the road to fuel up and I quickly fitted a new bulb.

All lit up again, and more visible to other road users, we headed off in the direction of the Ring of Kerry via the Gap Of Dunloe. Today we will ride the ring in a clockwise direction, I had read the coach route is anti-clockwise and didn't fancy getting stuck behind one of those, so we cut through the Gap first. Quite a bit of pedestrian traffic leading up to it and horses with carriages everywhere running scenic rides up to the lake. The weather yet again was superb. Just the right temperature for Motorcycling - not too hot, but great without my liners in.

Gap of Dunloe

A quick stop at the lake for photos we pressed on through Moll's Gap,  (named after Moll Kissane who ran a pub there during the road construction in the 1820's) this time in the opposite direction to how we came through this section yesterday on the way to Killarney.

The route became quite nice and twisty as we weaved through a bit of moorland and wilderness and we passed by a Waterfall, where I remembered I had the GoPro in my pannier. I quickly stopped while the others continued on ahead and mounted the camera on the bike to start filming

I had plotted the first part of the route slightly off the official ring on the R 568 this seemed a faster run and higher up. I wasn't disappointed and avoided any tourist traffic, Mark got in front and Mike and I followed him. Good fun we managed to have a nice fast ride through the wonderful valley all the way down to Sneem.

Near Augher Lake

Amazing scenery everywhere you looked. I couldn't resist stopping the bike several times and taking it all in. I now see what all the fuss is about now with the ROK. 

While riding it was difficult to know where to stop and get the camera out there were so many viewpoints. With Mike and Mark behind I didn't want to stop too often, but I knew they would be wanting to stop too so I put the camera in my tank bag, and we agreed to leap-frog each other getting photo's when we each felt like stopping with the others carrying on if they didn't. 

Mark's Versys

Eventually we came down into  Sneem village and took a break to take on water next to this statue of this famous wrestler Steve Crusher Casey  Interesting character coming from a family of bare knuckle boxers.

Steve Crusher Casey (Wrestler) Sneem

As we came around to about 8'o clock on the Ring of Kerry, Mike was in front we managed to miss a turning to ride the Skellig Ring - a road that loops by Valentia Island in the distance, as well as way off in the distance Skellig Michael made famous recently for being the hideout of the ageing Luke Skywalker in the latest Star Wars movies. Mike didn't have a GPS or tank bag with map, so was none the wiser so I tried to catch up with him and after I pulled him over, assumed he got the message but with a bit of confusion as I waved a Harley rider on who was behind us when I  turned around meant myself and Mark waited at the turning for five minutes before heading along the chosen Skellig Ring without Mike. Mike eventually called me on my phone / headset and we agreed a meet and lunch not far away in the harbour town of Portmagee. A minor mistake and the only navigational one so far on the trip, thankfully he didn't miss too much of the route.  

Skellig Michael

When arriving in the town I noticed Mike sat at a table outside the very nice Smugglers Cafe. Well done Mike, I really enjoyed lunch here sat in the sun with great service too. 

Portmagee on the Skellig Ring

We managed to catch most of the second half of the World Cup England v Panama too, streamed radio commentary using Mark's phone. With a 6-1 result to England and a nice Ciabatta under our belts we were soon underway to ride the rest of the Ring.

After a short ride we crossed the Valentia River at Cahersiveen for a brief stop at  Ballycarbery Castle. Unfortunately, visitors aren't allowed, but nothing much there anyway and with time pressing on we carried on riding.

Ballycarbery Castle

Look in to my eyes. Mike (the Gravel Meister) and Me.

After we crossed over to the Dingle Peninsula at Castlemaine we decided to cut the ride short and save the Connor Pass for tomorrow. we took the shorter 15 mile route straight to our stay at the Dingle Harbour Lodge arriving around 5.30 pm - the earliest so far. An unusual place to stay, the most expensive of our trip with less facilities and no bar!   We put the expense down to popularity with American tourists, but Dingle is such a nice location I couldn't resist. I really wanted to visit again ever since a family holiday when I was 12 years old. I can't say I remembered much of it, but the location of the lodge was near the town and pubs.

GoPro Video riding around part of the Ring Of Kerry

With  a quick rest and change, we soon strolled up town to Dick Mack's pub for a few pints of  the black stuff and to review the days events stood outside in the brewery yard. The place was full of Americans and Dingle does seem a bit touristy these days it seems. Afterwards, we went to find a restaurant but couldn't make our mind up at first, eventually settling for the Lord Bakers restaurant a bit further up the hill. I opted for the Kerry Lamb, and Mike and Mark went with a Steak each. Good value I thought, and the owner (not sure if his name really was Lord Baker) gave us excellent service. Well recommended. 

Dick Mack's

Rounding the night off, we visited a few pubs, each having there own traditional Irish Music players. We even thought we saw Robbie Coltrane's sister in one of them - I did think she was a bit of a 'Cracker' (sorry Frank Carson, couldn't resist) ! 

Brian May lookie likey to be sure

Superb days riding ,with great company, probably the best so far. The roads were smoother on this one, and the scenery breathtaking! Tomorrow we ride over the Connor Pass and back East to Wexford.

Ring of Kerry - Part 2 - Dungarvan to Killarney via Beara Way

Up early after a big breakfast and on the road just after 9 following surgery in the Hotel car park using my multi-tool pliers to retrieve an ear plug from Mark's ear. While waiting I met a guy with leathers and denims stood next to a Harley in the car park. I spent 10 minutes discussing Harley ownership before he jumped in a car and drove off. Wasn't his bike at all !!

The route today took us out West avoiding the main dual carriageway roads skirting North of Cork South- West of Carrick on Suir with a stop at Blarney Castle for lunch.

On the way we passed through Lismore and the magnificent Castle just off the main road. I kind of wished we had stopped there for a look around instead, really did look a special place. Glorious sunshine today too, blue sky, 22 degrees and rising.

Lismore Castle

Blarney Castle (from the Car Park)

Now we were riding in some spectacular Irish countryside and stopped at Blarney, but 26 Euros seemed a bit steep for the entrance fee. Mark reckoned we would catch germs kissing the Blarney Stone anyway but we needed a break from the  jarring roads. We opted for a nice cafe for lunch instead. A bit touristy for us here really.

After another fifty miles we stopped for a drink in a lay-by somewhere off the R584 near Macroom. Mike riding without a GPS he was between myself and Mark so when pulled over Mark chose to ride off on his own around the valley to spin the Versys up a bit for fun. Quite entertaining watching him razzing around in the distance. 

Later in the afternoon we headed up the high pass Priests Leap. A single track road with plenty of gravel for Mike to have a go at, it rises up over 500 metres on the way to Kenmare. Stunning views up here, on the way we came across a camper van stuck in the middle of the road across the lane with its front in the hedge. We briefly considered stopping to help, but they had already called for help and I doubted we would have been able to push it out anyway so I made the decision to ride on past through the slight gap between the van and other side of the road. We met several cars coming down so figured they would have to assist anyway! 

The road up to Priest's Leap.

Mike - on the gravel rocket

Mike and Mark - Top of Priest's Leap

We now decided to switch in the alternative route for the additional 70 miles back down south to Glengarriff and join on to the Beara Way and ride around in a clockwise direction down to Cable Car Cafe and then back up the North coast toward  Kenmare.  

The Druid at the Druid's Loop pull in.

We met a couple of German bikers on Harley's and Mike tried to discuss Germany's chances in the world cup without much success, they did take a great photo of the three of us though .... winning smiles or what?

Blue Pool Lagoon near Glengarriff

Cafe Stop - Glengarriff

We needed fuel and a lunch stop even though by now it was almost 4 pm, a good rest was in order before we rode the next leg around Beara. We stopped at the Blue Loo pub, and had a Toastie and drink while chatting to a a very friendly couple (pictured right) over from Dublin on holiday.

The ride around the Peninsula was just sublime. Amazing views, the roads were twisty and a bit gnarly in places, I did wonder how Mike was coping with the additional miles and poor road surface (for a sports bike). I made it down to the Cable Car that crosses to Dursey Island and a few miles before this I noticed Mike and Mark were missing. I stopped and pulled up and waited for about ten minutes with no sign of them. Just as I was about to ride back to find them they arrived. It seems Mark had simply stopped to take a photo of some of these magnificent scenes - and who can blame him!

Views around the Beara Peninsula

On the way back up the N71 and through the wonderful Killarney National Park we travelled via  Molls Gap (Mountain Pass) all twisty and great before stopping at Lady's View to take in the sights of Upper Lake before passing by Muckross Lake and through Killarney town centre for a recce' for tonight and on to our nights stay at the very nice Heights Hotel.

"Great riding today lads .. superb" 223 Miles

I struggle to remember our night out in Killarney to be honest, I remember getting the taxi in, but have since been reminded by Mark we ate in the Porterhouse Gastro' Pub in a booth, but most of that night is a complete blur....

... we made it to this pub with a guitarist / band we couldn't see or get to 'cos it was rammed and rocking to some great tunes. Met plenty of friendly people in there and found the Craic' with them. Mike was explicitly told off for pouring part of his old Guinness pint into his new one - apparently it's sacrilege to do this, and I do remember Mark turning out with a nice looking dress jacket! How in the hell did he pack that on his bike with very few creases?

Later, we were advised to visit the Piano Bar. I really enjoyed this one aswell - a great atmosphere with great singalong musical ballads. I tried to borrow Mark's jacket to look the part but it didn't look right on me when viewed in the mirror behind the bar. There was a good guy banging out tunes on a Grand Piano (but I can't remember what now). By this time I was beginning to stagger a bit after my rubbish Pogo' attempt in the nightclub downstairs, so the tree of us headed back to the Hotel and had with a Disaronno night cap instead.

Didn't need it, but always knew it was there!

Tomorrow (er, later today) we ride ...... The Ring of Kerry