Our Spanish adventure now well and truly underway as the four of us started our ride south east toward Pamplona. We soon found ourselves riding some amazing scenery in this remote wild almost 'forgotten' Spanish countryside. We would ride for miles without seeing another vehicle on the smoothest of asphalt I'd ever ridden. By lunchtime we pulled into a 'truck stop' diner near a small village just on the outskirts of a trunk road. It was quite hot by now and I recall us being seated overlooking the valley. I ordered a plate of lamb stew with fries and have to say it was really tasty and filling. The local workers were drinking either wine or beer with their meal, were were very tempted too but settled on a cool coke instead, a much safer option, the heat was already making us quite drowsy as the afternoon warmed up above 30 degrees.
After lunch we rounded a large bend on a steep mountain pass along the NA-120 North and found a large cross. We pulled over to take a look at the view point
Mirador Del Puerto De Lizzaraga and marvelled at the plateau below. We never did find out the significance of the cross only to assume it being a shrine or to signify the top of the pass. At one point Lindsay appeared to get on his knees and pray at the foot of the cross, but as it turned out was looking for a good photo shot!
Later, we arranged a photo shoot where I'd ride on a while and stop to take a pic of the other three riding along the plain and then we'd swap over to include me too. Good fun and I think our pics came out quite well and capture those long deserted roads.
We came across a cafe on top of a hill and went inside to order cold drinks. All of the staff were gathered around the wall mounted TV and served us without paying us much attention. Their gaze fixed on the TV I assumed it was a football match when Mark suddenly pointed out it was the start of the San Fermin festival where we were heading all of the staff and customers were watching the festival start with a firework being launched from the balcony of Pamplona Town Hall. Below in the square a huge gathering of people all dressed in white with red scarves were chanting something we couldn't understand but the cafe staff were joining in so clearly an important part of the proceedings. We were quite excited by what we were witnessing since we couldn't get available accommodation in Pamplona I had decided to book us into a campsite in the region of Navarra near
Etxarri-Arantz about 20km away from Pamplona and accessible by train. That night we stayed in the mediaeval walled town of Laguardia in the very nice
Ville de Laguardia hotel. A last bit of luxury before our upcoming fiesta camping ordeal!
We made the campsite in good time, and managed to get a quiet pitch by some log cabins behind us. Mark had sorted his tent out quickly using an electric pump to inflate his bed, leaving us all to 'puff' and hyperventilate while inflating ours. We all settled for a a bit of a snooze in the afternoon - siesta style before we all headed off to find the railway station. Tonight we would sleep on the streets of Pamplona. The first bull run would be around 8am and apparently there is limited space to get a good view so the plan was to sleep there amongst the crowds.
Peter treated us all to a huge sausage based evening meal and beers to start us off and we bought some San Fermin 2012 official t-shirts and the red scarf they were all wearing. This was great the atmosphere was electric and later while walking around at night we noticed the cobbles were sticky from the red wine being sprayed out of the hip pouches most were wearing. The scenes were chaotic as we started to party it up with alls sorts of nationalities including a few Australian lads who were going to take part in the bull run opting to get chased down the streets. For a while we contemplated it but I'd seen videos of the injuries and didn't fancy trying to ride my bike back to the UK after being trampled underfoot by a large bull. Later we found a spot each on the rampart overlooking the holding pens for the bull's ('El Torro') and settled down for the night. By now it was about 4am so we tried to get some sleep, dozing off intermittently on the hard floor. As we sobered up during the early hours of the morning it was quite cold and windy but the excitement was building as the crowds ready to run were gathering below us.
We were all amazed as Peter seemed wide awake and ready for the mornings events. Our very own 'El Torro'! Waiting for the guy to open the gate and let the bulls loose there would be a chant: "We ask Saint Fermin, as our Patron, to guide us through the encierro and give us his blessing" '. The guy on the gate kept rattling the latch to increase the tension as some of them started to run before realising it was a a ruse, but eventually he did open the gate and the bulls ran through the streets. The first part of the route offers no protection, no doorways and we saw a few people get flipped up and trampled with paramedics following behind - one guy did look quite badly injured.
After the bulls had passed and the crowds dispersed the
giants and big head parade started. This was some spectacle and we watched in awe as people would block streets to watch with people displaying the Navarre flag from balconies above. Some time later feeling quite tired we headed back to the railway station to return back to the camp site and we crashed for the remaining afternoon. Thankfully our bikes were still where we left them but I can't recall what we did for the rest of the day but I do recall being awoken in the night by revellers in the cabins. It was all a blur after all of the excitement.
What an amazing time, incredible celebrations and it happens every year with people travelling from all over the world to take part. Tomorrow we would travel back north west toward the coast.
